Rating: WI3/4
Length: 65 meters
This route is usually in thin conditions and therefore can be a committing lead. Climb thin verglas in the beginning and head for the gully to set up a belay after finishing the first pitch. A short section will lead to the finish and some trees/bushes at the top for the rappel. It is recommended that a longer rope be use (300 feet) if possible because the thin ice conditions may make a V-thread for a direct descent impossible.
FA: Charlie Sassara & friends
Anchor: Alder bushes exist on the route for a rappel stations
ALERT: Avalanche danger exists in this area. Know your surroundings and know the conditions!
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Take the Portage Glacier Road from the Seward Highway as if going to Whittier. Drive approximately 4 miles to the Williwaw Camp Ground and parking area. If the lot is plowed park there; however, if the parking area isn't plowed be prepared to drive to the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center (another mile down the road) and approach by foot. From the Williwaw parking area find the obvious trailhead beginning at the south side of campground. (Note: The area may be used sometimes by snow machiners so be on the lookout for traffic.) Hike the trail along a well maintained boardwalk until one finds easy passage through the brush to the Middle Glacier drainage. Hike the drainage upstream into the valley. Pass luckyman and continue hiking approximately 1000 feet further up the Middle Glacier Valley. The route is found on the east wall and is directly across from Gingus.
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