Triangle Peak 2

Rating:
Length: 650 meters

A long 1500′ (approx.) snow couloir (50-60 degress max) climb is necessary to approach the base of this route. Ths couloir trends up to a large headwall with a pencil like pillar coming down the middle. The first step of ice is a long 40-50 meter slab of 60-70 degree ice to the base of what looks to be a 40 meter freestanding pillar.

FA:

Anchor/Descent: Be prepared to set a V-thread for the descent.

alert icon ALERT: Avalanche basin is located directly above the pillar and it looks dangerous in all but the best snow conditions.

Lat:
Long:

Hike or ski approximately 3 to 4 miles east of the Castner River bridge on the south side of the Castner Glacier until this route comes into view.

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Triangle Peak 2
Triangle Peak 2
Triangle Peak. Photo: Jeff Benowitz.
Triangle Peak. Photo: Jeff Benowitz.
Triangle Peak. Photo: Jeff Benowitz.
Triangle Peak. Photo: Jeff Benowitz.