Rating: WI5+??
Length: 70-80 meters, one main pitch and second short pillar
This route forms over an overhanging wall of rock that makes a solid, steep pitch of ice. A lot of water flows on this formation which may make certain parts in the middle of the route probably not climbable. The left and the right side pose different challenges with the left being the most difficult. 70 meter ropes are highly recommended because shorter ropes will leave you stranded in the most difficult section of the first pitch of the route for a hanging belay.
FA:
Anchor: Bring material for a V-thread to rappel the route.
Lat/Long: 60.029444, -149.490277
This climb is located approximately 4 miles from the Caines Head Trailhead. It appears to the left of the more obvious, Tonsina Creek 6. Hike the main Tonsina Creek drainage until one approaches an obvious Y-split in the river. Head left onto the Y for a short distance and turn left into a small alcove. This majority of this climb remains hidden until one hikes around a short hill that reveals this beautiful pillar. The top of the pillar is visible from Tonsina Creek proper.
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