Author: AIC Admin

Turquoise Dragon

Rating: WI 5
Length: 1,300 feet
Pitches: 5 to 6

Pitch 1 is 25m WI 2/3
Pitch 2 is 25m WI 3+
200ft snow climb with two short easily solo’able WI2 pitches to base of pitch 4
Pitch 4 is 35-40m WI5
400-500ft snow climb taking eight at obvious drainage fork to base of pitch 5
Pitch 5 is 15m WI 3+

While the final pitch is worthwhile, parties who are short on time or looking to avoid the snow slog wouldn’t be missing a ton to turn at the top of pitch 4.

FA: Paul Turecki and Jim Sweeney

Descent: Rap the route.

Posted by: Forrest Voss, February 5, 2022.

G-Man

Rating: WI 4
Length: 15 meters

From Fat City and Urban Ice: “This obscure climb is located (no joke) on the Left Fork of the Right Fork of Government Creek. A two hour approach gets one to this difficult little formation on the right side of the gully. Apparently the route is clearly visible from Lazer St., beyond the airstrip on the Edgerton Parks Road which is reached by turning west from the end of the pavement just past Hatcher Pass grocery on Fishhook Road. Get your maps out for this one.”

Fortunately, we have a more current description…

From Marcin Ksok in 2022: “This route is located in Government Creek drainage above Government Peak Recreation Area. Consists of one short pitch of WI4. It is visible from the Nordic ski trails. Although we did not see any evidence of prior ascent, the high visibility of the route suggest that someone might have ventured up it in the past.”

FA: Pat Thompson, Scott Mignery, and Mike Dagon, 1987.

Descent: Rap the route.

Posted by: Marcin Ksok, January 29, 2022.

Lil’ Kahuna

Rating: WI 4
Length: 50 meters

Tucked on the north side of Mt. Wickersham

Route starts on a vertical section for 30 feet, a quick step up a low angle section to the next 30 feet of WI3 leads to a large belay ledge or you can continue up in one. Left side has a mellow WI2 ramp to a short 15ft steep chimney or punch straight through 60ft of a perfect WI4/+ face.

FA:

Descent: Rap the route.

Posted by: Brett Ryne Winterbottom, January 17, 2022

Gravy Tran

Rating: WI 4
Length: 150 meters, 3 pitches

Fat smears running down rock wall on north side of first prominent gully east of Mineral Creek. Many other ice pitches exist in immediate vicinity. Mixed pitches are also available in immediate vicinity. Variations possible. Gravy Tran proper is the most obvious and fat smear pictured. P1 WI4. P2 WI2 and snow. P3 WI3+. Be mindful of anchor placement in terms of limited availability of solid ice where belayer for next pitch can be positioned to avoid falling debris.

From John Morton, January 3, 2022: “The route flowed like gravy! Tran is the name of the friend who fueled the mission, and can make some bomber gravys.”

FA:

Descent: Rap the route.

Posted by: Mat Brunton, January 1, 2022

Chickaloon River

As the name implies, this is a river, not a creek. That distinction should come with an expectation of big country and sometimes even bigger approaches. Access may be one the biggest issues and hurdles for this drainage, as the local community of Chickaloon guards this area into their backyard with good reason. The area is remote and quiet with stunning views. The rocky peaks are outstanding and provide interesting geology which creates the perfect backdrop for backcountry ice.

These climbs will likely require a snow machine to access. Many of the prominent routes are a good distance up river. Landing strips are present nearer to the headwaters which may provide an alternative to those willing to approach by foot or ski.

  • Chickaloon River 1
  • Chickaloon River 2
  • Chickaloon River 3
  • Chickaloon River 4
  • Chickaloon River 5
  • Chickaloon River 6

Be Weary of the Far Left

Rating: WI 5
Length: 30 meters

This ice route rarely comes in and is typically a mixed route. It exists in the same general area as Soul Creation that was established by the late Eddie Phay before it collapsed. The new line travels up some interesting terrain in a right facing dihedral left of Widow Maker that in 2020 was bolted to provide access (and safety) into a quality route.

FA:

Descent: Rap the route.

Posted by: Admin, 2021-11-27

One Man’s Trash

Rating: WI2/3
Length: 2,000 ft gulley, 2-3 sustained sections, many more boulder problems

2000ft ice gulley up the north side of Mt Benson. Starts with a highflow thin crux(5m) then turns into a fun boulder field with ice patches. Route meanders above, being all ice early season. Final step is a narrow slot canyon staircase. Best during early season flash freezes with no snow.

FA: Joe Nyholm and Cody Klingman, 2019-12-25

Descent:

Posted by: Joe Nyholm, 2021-09-22

Sheep Creek Falls

Rating: WI2/3
Length: 11 Meters
Pitches: 1

This is the most significant pitch of ice found in the Sheep creek drainage. While not any more or less challenging than the road ice off the highway the change of scenery can be appreciated. Following the pitch of ice, a long snow gully and a couple more log grade ice steps will make it possible to reach the summit of mt. Healy for a fun all day outing.

FA:

Descent: V-thread to descend.

Posted by: Tristan O’Donoghue, January 18, 2021

Glass Onion Direct

Rating: M6 WI6
Length: 160 Meters
Pitches: 4

P1: Climb “Hooligan” to a 2 bolt anchor on the party ledge below “Glass Onion”.

P2: “Pandemic Pitch” Follow the generously bolted line up the better quality rock hooking and pick torqueing through 30 feet of slightly overhung climbing. Pull a moderately exposed couple of moves to the upward left trending ramp. Continue to follow the bolted line to the 2 bolt anchor in the “Room with a View” to the left of the direct ice flow. Special thanks to Travis McAlpine for spearheading this bolted project.

P3: The “Super Susy Pitch” Originally named by Sue Nott and Brian Teale on their legendary bold first ascent of the “Indirect Onion” variation in 1998. Traverse from the “Room with a View” through 15 feet of exposed mixed moves to gain the icicle. Climb through very steep to overhanging ice directly straight up until the route starts to trend right. This is a serious pitch of climbing and requires run out short screws through overhanging moves on thin ice.

P4: The last pitch is where the standard “Glass Onion” takes over. Lead through the steps of vertical ice with good rests in-between to finish off the route.

FA: Ryan Sims, August Franzen, Taylor Brown. Special thanks to Travis Mcalpine for the vision and Benny Lieber for putting in some work with us. 2020-11-27

Descent: The route can be rappelled on double ropes using standard rappelling practices. However, I have always walked along the canyon rim to the north where a patch of tall spruce trees are. Walk down slope into the Simple Twist drainage to find a nice fat Spruce tree with rappel tat. Make sure to use common practice and inspect the tat before committing. Rappel through the alders straight down onto the top of Simple Twist and finish out the rappels on v-threads. Use common sense and be mindful of potential other parties on route before throwing ropes or committing to this descent route. A heinous walk-off is also possible down the chute to the south of Keystone Greensteps but be mindful of avalanche conditions.

Posted by: Ryan Sims, December 8, 2020.