Blackerby Ridge is located in the Lemon Creek Valley above Twin Lakes. Access is easy. Drive up behind Twin Lakes to Wire Street and park at the end of the street in the empty lot. Pack your bags and head up your favorite drainage or access the Blackerby Ridge trail head. The main first drainage on the left is where you will find Knucklebuster, the largest climb on the ridge. Other good routes include the sought after The Fang.
Author: buzzbizz
Pin-up Girl
Rating: WI4
Length: 250 meters
FA: Jason Nelson & Ryan Johnson, March 2011
Anchor/Descent:
Milagro de Plata
Rating: WI6
Length: 330 meters
FA: Jason Nelson & Ryan Johnson, March 2011
Anchor/Descent:
Bart Lake
Bart Lake is a massive void in the earth located just above the boundary waters of the Taku River just South of Juneau Alaska.
- Large Marge
- Pin-up Girl
- Milagro de Plata
Juneau
The capitol of Alaska, Juneau, is located in the Panhandle. This area is situated in a rainforest that receives hundreds of inches of rain each year. If the conditions are right, numerous massive waterfalls can fill the area. It is all about timing to take advantage of the climbs in the Juneau area.
Mirage Climbs
Rating: Varies
Length: Varies
These routes are elusive and do not form consistently from year to year. But, when these routes are in, much potential exists as can be seen from this 2010 picture.
FA:
Anchor/Descent: Be prepared to v-thread to descend.
Alzheimers
Rating: WI3
Length: 20 meters
Short pitch of varying terrain.
FA:
Descent: Rap trees or alders to descend.
Mount Ripinski
Haines resides at the foot of Mount Ripinski giving some of the mountain’s ice a short approach time from town. On the south side of Ripinski routes like the Mirage Climbs are accessed off the Haines Highway. Routes on the eastern edge are accessed by traveling on Lutak Road which leads to the Alaska Ferry terminal.
Tohitkah Twins
Rating: WI4
Length: 2 routes, each single pitch
Two climbs exist in this drainage. The north pillar was first led by Zach Jacobson. The south pillar was first led by Scott Visscher.
FA: Zach Jacobson & Scott Visscher, 2012
Anchor/Descent: On the No. pitch 2, 60 meter ropes and an alder clump got you down in one rap. On the So. pitch, walk up and then down a ridge on so. side to a 35 meter rap off a tree to the base of climbs. With 2, 70 meter ropes there’s a rap off tree at top.
Tohitkah Mountain
The routes on Tohitka Mountain are less prominent than the massive Blue Cherry across the valley. But, be sure to check them out if you are in the neighborhood.
Access is similar to Klutshah Mountain. After crossing the Kelsall, follow logging trails approximately two miles back to the Upper Chilkat River valley. Continue on the trails until the main scooter trail finishes with a 300 yard downhill through old growth. One will pop out at a slough and travel an additional three miles on trails to a (hopeful) river crossing at or near a seasonal lodge with guest cabins. This is a good marker that you are in the right area. Avoid a brush battle and head several hundred yards up valley past the guest lodge advancing toward the mountain’s slope.
ALERT: The access to the climbing in this area may exist through private property. Climb at your own risk and respect the land owners and property in this area.