Author: buzzbizz

Rating: WI4
Length: 70 meters

FA on New Years day, this steep route is still waiting for its second ascent as of January 2008. From the beach hike/climb up snow/ice to the base of the route. From the base climb steep and possibly free-hanging ice to the v-notch at the top of the bluff.

FA: Kyle Lints & Wes Kuhns, News Year Day 2006

Anchor: Alders exists for rappel; however, bring v-thread material and dirt pro just in case.

ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Rating: WI5
Length: 70 meters

From the beach climb moderate ice up to a short pillar that will land you just below a dead vertical and sustained curtain. Climb the curtain and top out on some moderate ice above.

FA: Bill McKenna & Steve Stauber, 1991

Anchor: Alders exist at the top of the bluff for rappel but v-thread gear or pins may be required.

ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Rating:
Length:

FA:

Anchor: Alders exists at the top for anchor or rappel.

ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Rating: WI4
Length: 70 meters

From the beach climb steep snow/ice to the base of the route. Climb a short and steep curtain to the snow bench. From the bench climb a steep pitch of ice, rock and dirt to the top of the bluffs. (Note: Codfather is the major ice formation shown in the picture. The smear of ice with two pillars to the right of Codfather is known as Mudpuppy).

FA: Bill McKenna & Steve Stauber, January 2008

Anchor: Alders exist at the top of the bluff for rappel but v-thread gear or pins may be required.

ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Rating: WI3-/WI4-
Length: 90 meters

From the beach climb a short section of dirty ice (WI3), followed by a low grade section up to the base of a thin curtain. Climb the curtain to reach a long section of more moderate ice that can take you to the top.

FA:

Anchor: Alders exist at the top of the bluff for rappel; however, be prepared to place a v-thread just in case the ice isn’t in all the way up.

ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Rating: WI3-/WI4-
Length: 75 meters

From the beach climb a gentle slope of snow, ice and sand up to base of a thin 3-4 meter pillar of dirty ice. Atop the pillar climb/hike another section of snow/ice and sand up to the base of a two-tiered curtain of ice. Climb the two curtains to the alders above.

FA:

Anchor: Alders exists at the top for anchor or rappel.

ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Rating: WI2-WI3
Length: varies

Multiple routes exist, but located in the left of this bowl area is a mult-tier’d route that will allow climbing from the beach (almost) up to the top of the bluffs. Most other routes end prior to the top of the bluffs.

FA:

Anchor: Alders exists at the top for anchor or rappel.

ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Rating: WI3
Length: 40 meters

From the beach hike up a short and steep gully of snow o the base of the ice. From the base climb a thick, wide, and often dirty curtain of ice to the top.

FA: Jim Sweeney, 1988

Anchor: Alders exists at the top for anchor or rappel.

ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Rating: WI4/5
Length: 90 meters

Climb a gentle section of WI2 followed a somewhat steeper pitch of WI3- to the base of a vertical curtain. At the base of the curtain and to climbers right is an anchor. Climb the nearly straight up curtain to a short section of mellow ice that will land you at the top.

FA:

Anchor: Alders exist at the top of the bluff for rappel and an anchor on climbers right at the bottom of the vertical curtain will allow a rappel to the beach.

ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Rating: WI3
Length: 40 meters

Hike a short, but steep section of snow and ice up to the base of the ice. From the base, climb a short section of moderate ice to the wider, steep curtain that will deliver you to the top.

FA: Bill Mckenna & Jim Sweeney, 1988

Anchor: Alders exists at the top for anchor or rappel.

ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.