Rating: WI5
Length: 300 meters, 6 pitches
Climb through 6 pitches of varying terrain of fat ice. Fourth pitch represents the crux with a short push of sheer vertical ice.
FA: Zac Jacobson & Scott Visscher, February 2010
Anchor/Descent: A healthy hemlock exists atop the second pitch. Be prepared to V-thread to descend to the base.
Mount Raymond lies near the Canadian border on the Upper Chilkat River in the far backcountry outside of Haines. It is a committing approach that is best made by snow machine because it is 20 plus miles from the Haines Highway. Approach Mount Raymond as one would for Klutshah Mountain and continue at least an additional five miles on river flats and sloughs which is sometimes made easier by previous snow machine tracks from hunters and trappers in the area. Channel crossings may be necessary and it may prove wise to wait for these to set up. The prominent route on Mount Raymond, Goat Tiers, becomes visible about a quarter mile north of the last visible area of Blue Cherry on Klutshah Mountain.
Rating: WI4/5
Length: 2 pitches
This route consists of a big, fat pillar with a narrowing section at the top.
FA: Zach Jacobson & Scott Visscher, February 1, 2009
Anchor/Descent: A healthy hemlock exists atop the second pitch. Be prepared to V-thread to descend to the base.
Klutshah Mountain exists in the Upper Chilkat River area and is a committing approach. In fact, given the long approach time, an overnight stay is recommended. Snow machines, snow shoes, or skis can help on the approach. And, pay attention to the weather to gain a handle on whether or not the climbing is in.
After crossing the Kelsall, follow logging trails approximately two miles back to the Upper Chilkat River valley. Continue on the trails until the main scooter trail finishes with a 300 yard downhill through old growth. One will pop out at a slough and travel an additional three miles on trails to a (hopeful) river crossing at or near a seasonal lodge with guest cabins. This is a good marker that you are in the right area. Avoid a brush battle and head several hundred yards upvalley past the guest lodge advancing toward the mountain’s slope. Snowshoe/ski/posthole in a southwesterly direction directly along the slope and creek bottom for the path of least resistance. The moutain’s steep slope and creek wrap directly into the gorge and take you to the climb within 30 minutes on foot.
ALERT: The access to the climbing in this area may exist through private property. Climb at your own risk and respect the land owners and property in this area.
Climbing in the Upper Chilkat exists in the remote backcountry north of Haines. Haines and the surrounding area can have more moderate winter conditions which makes timing all the more important when thinking of climbing in this area. If you hit this area after a cold snap you might just find yourself rewarded with some big ice.
The area north of the Wells Bridge on the Haines Highway at the Chilkat River crossing has become known as the Upper Chilkat. Take the Haines Highway by car north from Haines about 27 miles to the turn off at Mosquito Lake Road. Take Mosquito Lake Road and travel three miles to Kelsall Road. Parking is recommended here or backtrack on Mosquito Lake Road to the school. Travel Kelsall Road nine miles to Kelsall bridge at the confluence with Nataga Creek. Cross the Kelsall River and head back to the Upper Chilkat River proper.
Our thanks go out to Zac Jacobson for sharing his information on the climbing potential in this remote area.
Rating: WI4
Length: 20 meters
Consists of several steep challenging steps.
FA:
Anchor/Descent: A healthy pine tree exists atop the pitch.
Rating: WI3
Length: 50 meters
Consists of two short steep sections. Route may vary and be thin to hollow in sections.
FA:
Descent: Trees are available for descent.
The Haines Highway leaves town and travels near the shores of the Chilkat River making its way towards Canada. The highway follows the Chilkat for 24 miles and then begins a leg in the Klehini River drainage which eventually leads across the border to Haines Summit. Some routes like those at Mini Mouse and at 12 Mile are right off the road while others in the Upper Chilkat River drainage are more time consuming and are best approached by snow machine.
Haines can be accessed by car via the Alcan Highway at the Haines Junction off the Alcan Highway in the Yukon Territory of Canada. Or, one can approach by boat by jumping on the Alaska Marine Highway out of Juneau. Obviously, a plane ride can make for an easy, quicker trip to Haines. This portion of the guide is in development and currently we only have listed the Upper Chilkat River valley. Hopefully, more to come.
The southeast of Alaska is sometimes referred to as Panhandle and is more temperate than most other areas of the state. As such, the ice climbing in this area comes about as quickly as it goes. If you are going to climb in the southeast, have your harness on at all times with your tools holstered.
