Author: buzzbizz

Codfather

Rating: WI4
Length: 70 meters

From the beach climb steep snow/ice to the base of the route. Climb a short and steep curtain to the snow bench. From the bench climb a steep pitch of ice, rock and dirt to the top of the bluffs. (Note: Codfather is the major ice formation shown in the picture. The smear of ice with two pillars to the right of Codfather is known as Mudpuppy.)

FA: Bill McKenna, Dave Lucey & Corey Hinds, 2007

Anchor: Alders exist at the top of the bluff for rappel but v-thread gear or pins may be required.

alert icon ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Close to Home

Rating: WI3
Length: 50-60 meters

From the beach, either hike around or climb the moderate (WI2) ice to a bench above. At the bench climb some steeper (WI3) ice approximately 30 meters up to a smaller bench before finally topping out on a short step of either ice or mixed conditions.

FA: Jim Sweeney & Billy Day, 1987

Anchor: Alders exists at the top for anchor or rappel.

alert icon ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Boredwalk

Rating: WI4
Length: 60 meters

Climb a section of moderate ice up to the base of the first pillar. Atop the first pillar is a short section of moderate ice up to a slightly longer ice curtain. Climb the vertical curtain up to another curtain which will land you at the top of the bluffs.

FA: Steve Garvey

Anchor: Alders exists for rappel on climbers left; however, bring v-thread material just in case.

alert icon ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Homer Bluffs

The Homer Bluffs sport some of the most picturesque and aesthetic climbs on the Kenai Peninsula. Due to the ever-changing weather conditions, the routes here are often difficult to predict.

Access to these routes is made by two options. The quickest approach is gained by accessing a short trail off Saltwater Drive from the Sterling Highway. Rappel Close to Home to the beach and walk the bluff to the many route choices in this area. The alternative is to park at the Bishop’s Beach access point and hike the beach but that is a long approach.

alert icon ALERT:If parking on Saltwater Drive, please be mindful of the neighborhood and private property. If too many parked cars are present, it is recommended that you park on the Sterling Highway and walk back to the trail access. Do what you can to protect continued access to these bluffs for all climbers in the future by not encroaching on the limited resources of this area.

alert icon ALERT: Do not get caught by the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes and can caught off access along the beach bluff climbs.

Canyon Creek Pillar

Rating: WI4
Length: 60 meters

The route starts immediately above the creek so be prepared to belay in a sitting position. Climb a near vertical pillar for approximately 15-17 meters to some steppy ice for another 25 meters. Above the steppy ice climb through brush to reach two large trees to the anchor.

FA:

Anchor: Alders, brush and trees exist. Webbing may be necessary for ice anchors.

Kenai Peninsula

The Kenai Peninsula offers incredible ice climbing in some of the most spectacular settings. Some climbs drop straight into the Cook Inlet with towering volcanoes in the distance. Other areas are home to beautiful ice formations that are extremely technical and that prove to be the test piece in difficulty. Whatever your passion, the Kenai Peninsula is always sure to deliver.

KENAI WEATHER

Chitistone River

Chitistone River provides one of the most wild experiences for ice climbing in Alaska. This style of climbing is more akin to an expedition than to the weekend outings available around Anchorage. It has seen plenty of activity as early as 1987 when a few parties visited these climbs and made numerous first ascents. Roman Dial was instrumental in documenting this information and wrote a guide on the area in 1988 that provides history and experiences of climbing in this remote area of Alaska.

Refer to Roman Dial’s forum link iconChitistone Canyon Ice Climbs Guide for more detail on this area.

This area was also documented on forum link iconEpisode 4 of The Firn Line podcast from a bikepacking trip made into the area in early 2016.