Author: buzzbizz

Southcentral Alaska

Southcentral Alaska is home to approximately 40% of the state’s population, which is why it is one of the more explored areas. Modern highways throughout the region provide easy access to ice of varying caliber. However, if you have the temptation to explore, then head for the hills. There is plenty more in the backcountry.

This area is documented in Martin Martinez‘s forum link icon South Central Guide.

ANCHORAGE WEATHER

Sukakpak Mountain Right Falls

Rating: WI4-WI5
Length: 250 meters, 3 pitches

The route consists of three pitches separated by periods of snow. Attacking this climb in early season is best because the ice conditions can deteriorate in cold conditions. The pitches are steep and committing in this wilderness area.

FA:

Anchor/Descent: Be prepared to V-thread to rappel off of this route.

Sukakpak Mountain

Sukakpak Mountain is a towering mountain that exists relatively close to the Dalton Highway north of Wiseman. Take the Elliot highway north from Fairbanks approximately 60 miles to the town of Livengood. Pass close to the town Livengood and exit on to the Dalton Highway. Travel north another 200 plus miles to the mountain. Be prepared for the long trip in and make sure you bring plenty of fuel for your car.

North Alaska

The climbs of north Alaska offer more adventure than you could ever wish for. This area is home to some of the most remote country in the state, and with it comes commitment. The climbing exists north of the Fairbanks area in the foothills of the Brooks Range, with the most accessible climbs existing off the Dalton Highway along the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. If you think about climbing in this area, make sure you are well prepared because the truckers will not stop to help you.

Jack River Falls

Rating: WI3-4
Length: 150 meters, 3 pitches

The route consists of three pitches. The first pitch is relatively easy and is a walk up that can sometimes be buried in snow. The second pitch begins to steepen and the difficulty is raised to WI3 or WI4 for a full rope length. The third pitch is a few hundred meters up the drainage and is separate enough to be considered a different climb. This climb is huge when in good conditions and can accomodate several parties.

FA:

Anchor/Descent: Be prepared to V-thread to rappel off of this route.

alert icon ALERT: This trail is used by snow machines. Be cautious on the trail.

Jack River

Near Cantwell, the Jack River provides access into the hills to the east of the Alaska Range. Snow machiners frequent this area because of the nice back country access and a trail loop out to the Parks Highway. This well used trail makes entry into the Jack River for the ice fairly straight forward.

Take the Denali Highway east from Cantwell approximately 4 miles to the BLM right-of-way trailhead. This trail is marked by two posts on the south side of the Denali Highway. Depending on the time of year visited, one may have to travel half the distance to the trail head on unmaintained roadway. Late in the season towards April, the highway may be plowed all the way to the trail head. This trail is the access to Jack River and provides a right-of-way through the native owned land in the area.

alert icon ALERT: This trail sees a decent amount of snow machine travel so be cautious on the trail.

Burning Sensation

Rating: WI4
Length: 100 meters

The climb starts out with approximately 40 meters of moderate ice (WI2 at most) up to a very good belay stance with a good tree for an anchor at the left base of the crux curtain. The crux of the route is a large curtain of 90 degree ice approximately 15 meters in height (one could traverse right even further to make the crux just slightly shorter). Above the crux exists approximately 45 meters of moderate ice followed by a final 5 meter near vertical pillar.

FA: Tim Cronin & Dan Valentine, March 2012

Anchor/Descent: v-thread, alders, or walk off to left of route.