Author: buzzbizz

Excalibur

Rating: WI5
Length: 65 meters

The first pitch consists of a steep ramp to an ice mushroom lying below the final pillar. A belay can be found in alders to the right for the next pitch which consists of a vertical to slightly overhanging 100 foot plus pillar. The route takes its name from a delicate tool removal by Embick on the first ascent.

FA: Andrew Embick & Martin Leonard, January 1985

Anchor: Alders are available for a rappel.

alert icon ALERT: This route like most in the area exists is prone to avalanches. Pay attention to the snow conditions before accessing this route.

Mineral Creek

Park at the end of Mineral Creek Road. In the summer months the road will continue into the valley, but is closed in winter months for x-c skiing and snow machine use. Enter the valley on the Mineral Creek Trail that is well maintained. Cross the river on the metal bridge and walk, snowshoe, ski, or machine on the main trail for approximately a quarter of a mile until the main climbs become easily visible on the right (east) side of the valley. After the main ski trails end, continue on the snow machine trail to access routes farther up the valley.

alert icon ALERT: This area exists in high avalanche danger. Pay attention to conditions before getting on these routes.

  • An Ice Piece
  • White Label
  • Hematob Gulley
  • Climb for Nothing, Kicks for Free
  • Triatholon
  • Vanishing Point
  • Lost Arrow
  • Peggy’s Mane
  • Blue Horizons
  • Compagnon Du Risque
  • Excalibur
  • Gravy Tran
  • Arthur
  • Merlin
  • Mizu Tori
  • Tiger’s Teeth
  • Twisted Brothers Left
  • Twisted Brothers Right
  • Victims of Illusion
  • Lost & Found
  • Wowie Zowie
  • Doctor Wielands Wild Eye
  • Silver Haired Daddy
  • Pillar of Light
  • Planet Power
  • Crawford’s Pillar
  • La Estrella
  • Thai Kwan Doe
  • Turquoise Chimney
  • Early Winter Fall
  • Kayaker’s Delight
  • With Two You Get Eggroll
  • Grunt Wall

Mud Slide

Rating: WI3
Length: 90 meters

This route climbs a moderate angle of a left-facing dihedral. The bottom consists of a short, steep pillar which leads to snow and a low angle section. A thin, 70 degree slab makes up the second crux of the climb.

FA: Rick Parks & Andrew Embick, December 1979

Anchor: A hike off to the right to gain access to a gully allows for a descent. Rappelling the route may not be possible because of thin conditions.

Keystone Greensteps

Rating: WI5+
Length: 200 meters

This is the longest route in the canyon that consists of four pitches of vertical ice. The first ascent took two days with a bivouac but is usually now climbed in a single push. This route is massive and many variations are possible but is more sustained throughout than Bridalveil Falls.

FA: Jeff Lowe & John Weiland, January 1976

Anchor: Rappel the route off of v-threads or access the pipeline road at the top of the route and walk to the right to gain access to a prominent chute just past Love’s Way.