Rating: WI5
Length: 400 ft
Pitches: 3
Upper pitch forms every year. Can go up gully on right side of wall (not in photos) and then rappel to bottom of 3rd pitch and lead or top-rope back up.
Pitch 1 and 2 have formed/climbed at least twice. 2nd time much fatter.
Grade? WI 5-WI 6 depending on conditions. Long lost arrow on back wall: protects the pillar when thin. General Delta mixed rack…cams, knife blades, screws and things.
First ascent was done with two left scarpa inverno boots…which luckily always fit like a Hefty bag.
Be sure to check out the extended description in Jeff Benowitz’s guide.
FA: Hebrew Hammer, Ian McRae, David Willey, 1990s
Descent: Rap route
Posted by: Jeff Benowitz, February 8, 2024.
Lat/Long:
Climbed what I believe is the 4th ascent of this in April of 2026 with ice all the way down the first pitch and thought it was about WI4. IMO hard to imagine people getting on it in FA conditions so I think a reduction of that grade to reflect what most people will experience when they climb it would be appropriate. From what I’ve heard the 2nd ascent had even better conditions so at this point it seems like the consensus is that it is not generally WI5/6
Perhaps post photos of forgiveness when its fat like a salmon’s belly? And then we can have thick and thin ratings? For- and -giveness? I’ve seen the recent ascent photos and agree it’s a different, albeit better climb. aside: First ascent leader was wearing two left boots (one on each foot) which may or may not have been part of the rating factor.