Rating: WI4
Length: 80 meters
Pitches: 2
The ice on this route meanders up through a headwall of rock. Even though the rock is relatively stable in comparison to other ranges, like the Chugach, the first ascent party did encounter a few bombs that placed climbers in danger. This hazard can be mitigated with well placed belays.
A first short step of WI3 leads up 10 meters to a large shelf/snow covered area of 15 meters to the base of the objective main pillar. Climb through 35 meters to a much smaller shelf to either belay the harder, and shorter second pillar of 20 meters or climb the whole pillar in a single push. To climb the whole main pillar in a single push would likely require 70 meter ropes.
The route name was given for the first ascent where Austin was lucky to avoid a rock bomb to the face when Mark called out a last minute warning. Thanks for the spot, Mark!
Descent: Rap the route. On the first ascent, the party rapped to the snow shelf on 70 meter ropes and a second rap was required to descend the first short step.
FA: Chris Lindsey, Austin Thayer, Brett Winterbottom, Mark Flennor; March 20, 2022.
Posted by: March 21, 2022.
Lat/Long: 61.95417, -148.14171 Gain access to Boulder Creek either at the Purinton Creek pullout or further east at the main parking area on the north side of the Glen Highway. Gain access to the snow machine trails and head way backcountry to the drainage just south of the main Superstition and Big Bubbler climbs that heads west off of Boulder Creek. This route is not visible from Boulder Creek proper and only comes into view after making your way up the side drainage. The first ascent made use of a helicopter landing to shorten the approach.
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