Rating: M4 WI4
Length: 4-5 pitches
Head up the rocky gully. About 500 ft up there is a short step of ice coming into the gully on the right. Rack up here. Climb the short step of ice, then another short step with turf sticks. Above, a full rope-length of WI2/3 brings you to a fork in the drainage. Belay here off stubbies, thin ice. Head to the right up easy rock terrain. Sling a horn for the belay. Climb up the M4 or 5.6 groove, then more easy ground till you run out of rope. Belay off of nuts or slung horns. Climb the WI4- pitch to the top.
FA: Andy Sterns and Jason Stuckey, November 11, 2011
Anchor/Descent: V-threads and slung boulders for the rappels. 2 ropes for the rappels are recommended.
Lat:
Long:
The climb follows the approach for Wing and a Prayer and the Corridor. Just as you are about to drop into the Jack Creek drainage, head to the left up the obvious gulley in the middle of the rock buttress.
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