Rating: WI6
Length: 1500 feet
This is the most spectacular climb in the canyon, featuring eight distinct steps in 1,500 feet. Broken Dreams is the obvious multi-tiered waterfall cascading down the left hand side of the Chitistone Canyon about three miles upstream of Glacier Creek. Directly opposite on the right side is Full Bore. Hike up the obvious outwash cone into the woods and to the base of the first tier.
For more information refer to Roman Dial’s 
Chitistone Canyon Ice Climbs Guide .
FA: Chuck Comstock, Roman Dial, Carl Tobin, January 1987.
Anchor: V-thread.
Lat:
Long:
The famed Broken Pillar that collapsed on the first ascent party (and Roman Dial took photos of) was climbed for the first time in March 2023. One could say the Broken Dreams were mended. One of the highlights of my climbing career so far. A beautiful day in one my favorite places with Tristan O’Donoghue, Jonathan Koenig, and Elias Antaya.