Rating: WI3
Length: 35 meters
Pitches: 1
15 meters of easy ice leads to 20 meters of steeper ice reaching WI3 in difficulty. 25 meters of of low angle snow/scree leads to a rock sling.
FA: Douglas Hartman and Shane Ohms; October 13, 2023.
Descent: Rappel route by slinging a large rock, or if the canyon to the left of climb is frozen enough to be passable, you can walk off to climbers left and walk back to the bottom through the canyon.
Posted by: Shane Ohms; October 17, 2023
Rating: M7 WI5
Length: 70 meters
Pitches: 2-3
This route is 20-30ft right of Sword in the Sword in the Stone Room. Climb through 2 shelves of steep ice blobs to a skinny pillar that ends on a horizontal mossy seam. Continue up and slightly right through 4 bolts and 2 pins to a dagger. Above the dagger is a 2 bolt anchor (slightly left) on the rock face below the next curtain. Belay here or continue up thin ice out right to gain the upper ice (steep for about 15m).
Ice anchor at the top of the steeps. Long wi3 pitch trending left takes you to the top. There’s a 2 bolt anchor at right of the base of the final wi3 bulge.
FA: Travis McAlpine, Benjamin Lieber, Elliot Gaddy; January 21, 2023.
Descent: Rap the route.
Posted by: Ben Lieber; March 18, 2023
Rating: WI3 M3/4X
Length: 150-160m
Pitches: 3-4
The name was a joke on the trip from the movie “The Other Guys.”
P1: If you brought them, pickets could be used as an anchor from the snow chute while climbing left and up 25m across unprotectable rock to gain the base of low angle ice in a narrow gully. M3X 25m
P2: Climb thin ice and steep snow with little pro up to the base of the steeper pillar. WI2/steep snow 45m
P3: 70-80 degree ice, sustained for 50m leads to 13m of low angle ice and snow in a tight canyon. There are two pitons here in a crack on climbers left as a 70m rope won’t reach the small blob of ice used for decent. Belay here or bring a longer rope. WI3 63m
P4, Optional: Belay a climber up to the small blob and build a thread to descend or use pins to rap. 10m steep snow.
FA: Jason Leach, Ryan Ellicott, Shane Ohms; March 19, 2023.
Descent: Rap the route.
ALERT: Rockfall potential is above average on this route.
Posted by: Jason Leach; March 21, 2023.
Rating: WI4/5
Length: 103 meters
Pitches: 2-3
The route was given its name to pay homage to Dragonfly Falls near Healy as its where most Fairbanks climbers first get their taste of ice.
P1: Climb sustained ice to a small shelf or cave on the left side to avoid a semi-hanging belay, 40m
P2: From P1 anchor climb up and right regaining steep ice, sustained WI4 for 50m until the angle lessens. continue up 13m of low angle ice and snow to a large chunk of ice on the right side where you can build a comfortable belay anchor. Can be done as 2 pitches if you don’t have a 70m rope.
FA: Jason Leach, Shane Ohms, Kristopher Veronin; April 24, 2022.
Descent: Rap the route.
ALERT: Be aware of the HUGE objective hazard above the route. The Cantwell Glacier may calve seracs down this route. Rockfall potential is above average on this route.
Posted by: Jason Leach; March 21, 2023
Rating: WI4-5
Length: 30 meters
Pitches: 1
The two pillars are 30m in length. After 30m there’s another optional pitch of thin ice over slaby rock. If you do bonus pitch you can walk off of lower west glacier trail.
Descent:
FA: Unknown, first known lead is Mr Cameron Jardell.
Posted By: Dylan Stuart, March 11, 2023.
Rating: WI5
Length: 110+ meters
Pitches: 3-4
This is the right most pure ice line on the Coffee Break Wall. For pitch one, pick your line on a wide curtain pouring into a slot canyon (WI3-4), continuing on moderate snow to below the pillar for a belay. From here it is probably best to climb a 30 meter pitch of WI3 to a safe belay spot at the base of the pillar to avoid rope drag, there can be a sheltered cave here. Now tackle the pillar for 20-25 meters of WI5. The first ascent was done after a period of rain that left the pillar in fairly unprotectable ice conditions. Continue on above the pillar on moderate ice to a comfortable belay. Rappel from here, or depending on conditions there could be a little more moderate ice above.
According to Nate, “Cody drinks Bengal spice tea, and the route was very spicy, hence the name.”
Descent: V Thread, From above the pillar two 70 meter rappels should get you down.
FA: Cody Klingman, Nate Bannish, & Joe Nyholm; February 4, 2023
Posted By: Joe Nyholm, February 25, 2023.
Rating: WI4+
Length: 50 meters
Pitches: 1
On the left hand side of the Coffee Break Wall. Take the obvious sustained ice prow for about 40m and then continue on moderate ice/snow for another 10m to find a bulge of ice to belay from or traverse over to join the routes to the right for more ice.
Descent: Rap (v-thread) the route.
FA: Joe Nyholm, Nate Bannish, & Cody Klingman; February 4, 2023
Posted By: Joe Nyholm, February 25, 2023.
Rating: WI3
Length: 75 meters
Pitches: 2
Two 45′ pitches of WI3 located on the right side of the canyon when approaching.
Descent: Descend to climbers right.
FA: Unknown
This drainage lies just south of mile marker 234 on the Richardson Highway. Several climbs of note are known to exist in this remote area with the prize being Forgiveness.
Rating: WI4
Length: 150 meters
Pitch 1 – Climb a short vertical step of ice that leads to a left leaning ramp to set a belay at the next vertical section of ice.
Pitch 2 – Climb through a short vertical section of ice to a ramp to set a belay at the main headwall of the climb.
Pitch 3 – Climb a long section of ice (50-60 meters) through varying terrain to find mushrooms of ice that lead to the top of the canyon rim.
FA: Chris Roach, Bruce Harris, & Scott Mignery, 1991.
Descent: Rap birch trees at the top to the belay at Pitch 3. V-thread on 60 meters to the base of the climb.
