Ninilchik

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If the ice isn’t in on the Homer Bluffs, chances are you may find some at Ninilchik Beach. Ice pillars located both above and below the mouth of the Ninilchik River offer an array of medium length, yet challenging pillars of sometimes overhung ice. If moderate climbing is your thing, give this area a second look as there are plenty of fat WI3-4 routes, you just have to walk the beach and search for them.

These routes vary in difficulty just as much as they do in color (everything from black to yellow to blue). For those looking to climb low angle ice, there is plenty. For those looking to climb overhung, thin cicles, this is the place. Whatever the case, bring spectres if you want to keep your screws sharp because much of the ice in this area tends to house a good amount of sand. Also, be ready to make your own anchor should you top out. Route lengths vary, but having two ropes (for the rappel in) is a good idea.

(Note: Similar to the Homer Bluff, this ever changing and eroding area is difficult to learn when comparing the routes in the Fat City and Urban Ice guidebook; therefore, at this time Alaskaiceclimbing.com has provided only approach and a bit of route information. If you wish to learn more about this area we suggest studying the Fat City and Urban Ice guidebook which you should be able to find at your local library…in Alaska. Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking may also have a copy, but you must review it in the store as this book is now out of print.)

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alert icon ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Ninilchik area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on most routes.

True Grit

Rating: WI5
Length: 60 meters

As of January 2008 this route is waiting for a second ascent. In the fall of 2007 this route lost a major portion of the bluffs at the base, which had previously provided more solid climbing. What is left is a free hanging pillar. From the beach hike snow/ice to the base of the ice. Climb a 15 meter vertical and possibly free-hanging pillar to a short curtain above followed by easy climbing to the top.

FA: Bill McKenna, Kyle Lints & Wes Kuhns, December 2005

Anchor: Alders exist at the top of the bluff for rappel but v-thread gear or pins may be required.

alert icon ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Stingray

Rating: WI5/6
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From the beach climb moderate ice at the base of Redline up to where you feel comfortable to move right out onto the snow/ice and rock. Climb a dead vertical, thin, and possibly unprotectable pillar of ice. At the top of the top traverse right until you reach the ice that will take you to the top of the bluffs. up to up to a short pillar that will land you just below a dead vertical and sustained curtain. Climb the curtain and top out on some moderate ice above.

FA:

Anchor: Alders exist at the top of the bluff for rappel; however, a rappel from the top of Redline is recommended just in case your ropes don’t reach all the way to the base. V-thread material is recommended.

alert icon ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Sea Wolf

Rating: WI4+
Length: 70 meters

From the beach climb steep snow/ice to the base of the route. Climb a short and steep curtain to the snow bench. From the bench climb a steep pitch of ice, rock and dirt to the top of the bluffs.

FA: Jim Sweeney & Billy Day

Anchor: Alders exist at the top of the bluff for rappel but v-thread gear or pins may be required.

alert icon ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Resolution

Rating: WI4
Length: 70 meters

FA on New Years day, this steep route is still waiting for its second ascent as of January 2008. From the beach hike/climb up snow/ice to the base of the route. From the base climb steep and possibly free-hanging ice to the v-notch at the top of the bluff.

FA: Kyle Lints & Wes Kuhns, News Year Day 2006

Anchor: Alders exists for rappel; however, bring v-thread material and dirt pro just in case.

alert icon ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Redline

Rating: WI5
Length: 70 meters

From the beach climb moderate ice up to a short pillar that will land you just below a dead vertical and sustained curtain. Climb the curtain and top out on some moderate ice above.

FA: Bill McKenna & Steve Stauber, 1991

Anchor: Alders exist at the top of the bluff for rappel but v-thread gear or pins may be required.

alert icon ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Mudpuppy

Rating: WI4
Length: 70 meters

From the beach climb steep snow/ice to the base of the route. Climb a short and steep curtain to the snow bench. From the bench climb a steep pitch of ice, rock and dirt to the top of the bluffs. (Note: Codfather is the major ice formation shown in the picture. The smear of ice with two pillars to the right of Codfather is known as Mudpuppy).

FA: Bill McKenna & Steve Stauber, January 2008

Anchor: Alders exist at the top of the bluff for rappel but v-thread gear or pins may be required.

alert icon ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Homer Bluff 7

Rating: WI3-/WI4-
Length: 90 meters

From the beach climb a short section of dirty ice (WI3), followed by a low grade section up to the base of a thin curtain. Climb the curtain to reach a long section of more moderate ice that can take you to the top.

FA:

Anchor: Alders exist at the top of the bluff for rappel; however, be prepared to place a v-thread just in case the ice isn’t in all the way up.

alert icon ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.

Homer Bluff 6

Rating: WI3-/WI4-
Length: 75 meters

From the beach climb a gentle slope of snow, ice and sand up to base of a thin 3-4 meter pillar of dirty ice. Atop the pillar climb/hike another section of snow/ice and sand up to the base of a two-tiered curtain of ice. Climb the two curtains to the alders above.

FA:

Anchor: Alders exists at the top for anchor or rappel.

alert icon ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.