Rating: WI2-WI3
Length: varies
Multiple routes exist, but located in the left of this bowl area is a mult-tier’d route that will allow climbing from the beach (almost) up to the top of the bluffs. Most other routes end prior to the top of the bluffs.
FA:
Anchor: Alders exists at the top for anchor or rappel.
ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.
Rating: WI3
Length: 40 meters
From the beach hike up a short and steep gully of snow o the base of the ice. From the base climb a thick, wide, and often dirty curtain of ice to the top.
FA: Jim Sweeney, 1988
Anchor: Alders exists at the top for anchor or rappel.
ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.
Rating: WI4/5
Length: 90 meters
Climb a gentle section of WI2 followed a somewhat steeper pitch of WI3- to the base of a vertical curtain. At the base of the curtain and to climbers right is an anchor. Climb the nearly straight up curtain to a short section of mellow ice that will land you at the top.
FA:
Anchor: Alders exist at the top of the bluff for rappel and an anchor on climbers right at the bottom of the vertical curtain will allow a rappel to the beach.
ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.
Rating: WI3
Length: 40 meters
Hike a short, but steep section of snow and ice up to the base of the ice. From the base, climb a short section of moderate ice to the wider, steep curtain that will deliver you to the top.
FA: Bill Mckenna & Jim Sweeney, 1988
Anchor: Alders exists at the top for anchor or rappel.
ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.
Rating: WI4
Length: 70 meters
From the beach climb steep snow/ice to the base of the route. Climb a short and steep curtain to the snow bench. From the bench climb a steep pitch of ice, rock and dirt to the top of the bluffs. (Note: Codfather is the major ice formation shown in the picture. The smear of ice with two pillars to the right of Codfather is known as Mudpuppy.)
FA: Bill McKenna, Dave Lucey & Corey Hinds, 2007
Anchor: Alders exist at the top of the bluff for rappel but v-thread gear or pins may be required.
ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.
Rating: WI3
Length: 50-60 meters
From the beach, either hike around or climb the moderate (WI2) ice to a bench above. At the bench climb some steeper (WI3) ice approximately 30 meters up to a smaller bench before finally topping out on a short step of either ice or mixed conditions.
FA: Jim Sweeney & Billy Day, 1987
Anchor: Alders exists at the top for anchor or rappel.
ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.
Rating: WI4
Length: 60 meters
Climb a section of moderate ice up to the base of the first pillar. Atop the first pillar is a short section of moderate ice up to a slightly longer ice curtain. Climb the vertical curtain up to another curtain which will land you at the top of the bluffs.
FA: Steve Garvey
Anchor: Alders exists for rappel on climbers left; however, bring v-thread material just in case.
ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.
The Homer Bluffs sport some of the most picturesque and aesthetic climbs on the Kenai Peninsula. Due to the ever-changing weather conditions, the routes here are often difficult to predict.
Access to these routes is made by two options. The quickest approach is gained by accessing a short trail off Saltwater Drive from the Sterling Highway. Rappel Close to Home to the beach and walk the bluff to the many route choices in this area. The alternative is to park at the Bishop’s Beach access point and hike the beach but that is a long approach.
ALERT:If parking on Saltwater Drive, please be mindful of the neighborhood and private property. If too many parked cars are present, it is recommended that you park on the Sterling Highway and walk back to the trail access. Do what you can to protect continued access to these bluffs for all climbers in the future by not encroaching on the limited resources of this area.
ALERT: Do not get caught by the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes and can caught off access along the beach bluff climbs.
Rating: WI4
Length: 30 meters
Depending on melt conditions, start on a short section of steep and steppy ice to access the runnel above. Follow the runnel up as it winds up to the trees above.
FA:
Anchor: Alders, brush and trees exist.
Rating:
Length:
FA:
Anchor:
ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Ninilchik area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on most routes.
