Rating: WI3
Length: 135 meters
This route is moderate in difficulty and several pitches in length.
FA:
Anchor/Descent: Be prepared to V-thread to descend off of this route.
Rating: WI3
Length: 135 meters
This route is moderate in difficulty and several pitches in length.
FA:
Anchor/Descent: Be prepared to V-thread to descend off of this route.
Rating: WI5
Length: 60 meters
This climb can be completed in one long pitch or two short pitches.
FA:
Descent: Be prepared to V-thread to descend.
These climbs are located in close proximity to the town of Chitina and some are visible from in town.
The Chitina River valley and surrounding areas are home to some of the most remote ice in the state. Access in the winter months can be difficult and may require help from some of the locals. A degree of self sufficiency is required in this area because help is far from near.
Southcentral Alaska is home to approximately 40% of the state’s population, which is why it is one of the more explored areas. Modern highways throughout the region provide easy access to ice of varying caliber. However, if you have the temptation to explore, then head for the hills. There is plenty more in the backcountry.
This area is documented in Martin Martinez‘s South Central Guide.
Rating: WI4-WI5
Length: 250 meters, 3 pitches
The route consists of three pitches separated by periods of snow. Attacking this climb in early season is best because the ice conditions can deteriorate in cold conditions. The pitches are steep and committing in this wilderness area.
FA:
Anchor/Descent: Be prepared to V-thread to rappel off of this route.
Rating: WI5+
Length: 3 pitches
This route consists of three ice pitches separated by periods of snow in moderate angle gullies. The ice pitches are steep with the terrain being 85-90 degrees.
FA:
Anchor/Descent: Be prepared to V-thread to rappel off of this route.
Sukakpak Mountain is a towering mountain that exists relatively close to the Dalton Highway north of Wiseman. Take the Elliot highway north from Fairbanks approximately 60 miles to the town of Livengood. Pass close to the town Livengood and exit on to the Dalton Highway. Travel north another 200 plus miles to the mountain. Be prepared for the long trip in and make sure you bring plenty of fuel for your car.
Approach Dillon Mountain the same as one would travel to Sukakpak Mountain. Drive north past Sukakpak a few miles until one finds this peak on the east side of the highway. This mountain is relatively unexplored but does hold several gems.
The climbs of north Alaska offer more adventure than you could ever wish for. This area is home to some of the most remote country in the state, and with it comes commitment. The climbing exists north of the Fairbanks area in the foothills of the Brooks Range, with the most accessible climbs existing off the Dalton Highway along the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. If you think about climbing in this area, make sure you are well prepared because the truckers will not stop to help you.