Rating: WI3
Length: varies, 3 distinct pitches
From Eddie Phay’s Crag Alaska: Climbed a possibly new route on the right hand side shortly after China Wear, located fairly high up above a boulder slide. Looks pretty cool from the river, ended up only being about 25 meters though. The meat of the route had a really airy wind bell.
FA: John Giraldo and Eddie Phay, 2013
Descent:
Rating: WI3/4
Length: 70 feet
Clear blue ice on west side of creek that forms pretty consistent from year to year.
FA: Aletha Martin & Sammy White, 1990
Descent: Rap from trees.
Rating: WI5
Length: 400 feet
Pitches: 3
P1: A massive dagger that is situated in an overhanging alcove. It would take a really fat year to see this beast touch down into one epic pillar. Until then, expect an M-hard mixed route (unequipped).
**A hike around climbers left, followed by a rappel into the drainage exists to get you to the base of P2.**
P2: Consists of a few short steps of WI3 with a 20′ curtain of vertical ice in the middle.
P3: The $$ pitch! A lower ramp leads to beautiful vertical flow of ice. This will catch your eye from the road!
FA:
Descent: Rappel route using v-threads and alders. Alternately, climb out of drainage and hike off climbers left or right.
Posted by: Steve Job, November 10, 2020.
Rating: WI5
Length: 1,000 feet
Pitches: 4 distinct pitches
These four steps of broken ice are nearly as spectacular as Broken Dreams and located about ten minutes upstream. The first pitch is 200 feet of a very fat pillar called “Fat Pig”, WI4, similar to Valdez‘s Rain Check.
For more information refer to Roman Dial’s 
Chitistone Canyon Ice Climbs Guide .
From Roman Dial in November 2020: “Chuck and I almost got in a fight at the base of this….hence the name: rhymes with “cry babies”, but also perhaps the best of the big ice routes we did.”
FA: Eric Breitenberger, Chuck Comstock, Roman Dial, Carl Tobin, January 1987.
Descent: V-thread
Posted by: Ty Gaenzle, November 10, 2020.
Rating: WI2
Length: 250 feet
Pitches: 1
This narrow gully 250 feet right of Lucky Man and left of Stray Comet is a highly enjoyable route that turns corners and climbs short steps and bulges. A 30 foot step of ice in a corner on the second pitch forms the esthetic and enjoyable crux. This serves as the descent as Lucky Man.
Descent: Alders.
FA:
Rating: WI3
Length: 75 feet
Pitches: 1
This is a thin seam of ice that is clearly visible 300′ right of Lucky Man. Thin ice and skimpy protection can make it a serious lead.
Descent: Alders
FA: Roger Pollard, Skowboy, 1989
Rating: WI3
Length: 90 meters
Pitches: 2
20m of wide, easy ice leads to a steeper, narrow flow in a corner. A couple of more steeper steps above the ice hose lead to the end of the ice.
Descent: v-thread
FA: Sam Volk; November 4, 2020
Posted by: Sam Volk, November 9, 2020
Rating: WI5
Length: 60 meters
Pitches: 1
This is a beautiful sustained steep Pillar that comes in a little different every year but commonly has aerated sections, chandeliers and cauliflowers. The Left side usually comes in a little easier than the right.
Descent: V-thread off the top.
FA: Sherrie Soltis, Bill Billmier, & Jon Cobb; February 9, 2010.
Posted by: Sherrie Soltis, October 26, 2020.
Rating: WI5
Length: 165 feet
This is probably the fattest pillar climbed in Alaska. It is only 165 feet long but very steep and probably 165 feet around at its base. The climb is located directly across the Chitistone River from Broken Dreams and is very impressive, plunging as it does from the back of an alcove.
For more information refer to Roman Dial’s Chitistone Canyon Ice Climbs Guide .
FA: Eric Breitenberger, January 1987.
Anchor: V-thread.
Rating: WI6
Length: 1500 feet
This is the most spectacular climb in the canyon, featuring eight distinct steps in 1,500 feet. Broken Dreams is the obvious multi-tiered waterfall cascading down the left hand side of the Chitistone Canyon about three miles upstream of Glacier Creek. Directly opposite on the right side is Full Bore. Hike up the obvious outwash cone into the woods and to the base of the first tier.
For more information refer to Roman Dial’s Chitistone Canyon Ice Climbs Guide .
FA: Chuck Comstock, Roman Dial, Carl Tobin, January 1987.
Anchor: V-thread.
