Little is known about the ice climbing potential of southwest Alaska. Because most of this area is without roadways, many climbs are probably waiting for first ascents. Access by bush plane and strong backcountry skills may be required but the rewards can be high for the effort invested to climb in southwest Alaska.
Category: ice guide
Path of the Fallen
Rating: WI5
Length: 310 meters, 5 pitches
FA: Climbed January 2018 by Ryan Johnson and Samuel Johnson.
Anchor/Descent: v thread.
ALERT: Suicide icefall directly threatens the approach (and small approach pitch) but not the route. Be aware and move quickly. There is a large low angle slope above the route. Be aware and don’t climb during times of significant hazard.
Posted by: Samuel Johnson
Bathtime with Toaster
Rating: WI5
Length: 400 meters, 6 pitches
FA: Climbed Feb 2012 by Ryan Johnson, Samuel Johnson, and Tim Banfield.
Descent: v thread.
ALERT: Suicide Icefall exists to the left of the route. There is a large low angle slope above the route.
Posted by: Samuel Johnson
Suicide Basin
Take the west glacier trail to the Mendenhall glacier, navigate your way across the glacier and into Suicide Basin. The exact route will depend on snow cover and will vary from year-to-year.
Green Weenie
Rating: WI5-
Length:
Climb follows obvious drainage through steep curtain. This route is visible from downtown.
FA:
Anchor/Descent: Alders exist throughout the side of the route for rappel.
ALERT: Avalanches can be deadly in this drainage. Avalanches have been seen to rip all the way down to Basin Road. Check the conditions before climbing on this route. After any sizeable snowfall or heavy winds stay off the route until conditions improve.
Chop Gully
Rating: WI3
Length: 180-200 meters, 3 pitches
Climb follows obvious drainage.
FA:
Anchor/Descent: Alders exist throughout the side of the route for rappel.
ALERT: Avalanches can be deadly in this drainage. Avalanches have been seen to rip all the way down to Basin Road. Check the conditions before climbing on this route. After any sizeable snowfall or heavy winds stay off the route until conditions improve.
Mount Juneau
Mount Juneau ice climbs have short approaches, long routes, and the conditions can be viewed easily from Basin Road. Mount Juneau classics include Chop Gully, the Green Weenie, and Sunshine Gully.
ALERT: Avalanches can be deadly in this drainage. Avalanches have been seen to rip all the way down to Basin Road. Check the conditions before climbing on this route. After any sizeable snowfall or heavy winds stay off the route until conditions improve.
The Smear
Rating: WI3+
Length: 25 meters
This route travels up a rock face providing several variations of difficulty.
FA:
Anchor/Descent:
Mendenhall Glacier
The Mendehall Glacier is easily accessible from Juneau by Mendenhall Loop Road to the Glacier Spur Road to gain trail access. Other access points may exist from the West Glacier Trail off the Skaters Cabin Road on the north side of the lake.
- Mendenhall Falls
- The Smear
- Peninsula Pillar
Yellow Brick Road
Rating: WI3
Length: 60 meters
FA:
Anchor/Descent:
ALERT: Please pay close attention to not trespass on any private property.