Category: new route

Aim for the Bushes

Rating: WI3 M3/4X
Length: 150-160m
Pitches: 3-4

The name was a joke on the trip from the movie “The Other Guys.”

P1: If you brought them, pickets could be used as an anchor from the snow chute while climbing left and up 25m across unprotectable rock to gain the base of low angle ice in a narrow gully. M3X 25m

P2: Climb thin ice and steep snow with little pro up to the base of the steeper pillar. WI2/steep snow 45m

P3: 70-80 degree ice, sustained for 50m leads to 13m of low angle ice and snow in a tight canyon. There are two pitons here in a crack on climbers left as a 70m rope won’t reach the small blob of ice used for decent. Belay here or bring a longer rope. WI3 63m
P4, Optional: Belay a climber up to the small blob and build a thread to descend or use pins to rap. 10m steep snow.

FA: Jason Leach, Ryan Ellicott, Shane Ohms; March 19, 2023.

Descent: Rap the route.

alert icon ALERT:  Rockfall potential is above average on this route.

Posted by: Jason Leach; March 21, 2023.

Dragonfly Jr.

Rating: WI4/5
Length: 103 meters
Pitches: 2-3

The route was given its name to pay homage to Dragonfly Falls near Healy as its where most Fairbanks climbers first get their taste of ice.

P1: Climb sustained ice to a small shelf or cave on the left side to avoid a semi-hanging belay, 40m

P2: From P1 anchor climb up and right regaining steep ice, sustained WI4 for 50m until the angle lessens. continue up 13m of low angle ice and snow to a large chunk of ice on the right side where you can build a comfortable belay anchor. Can be done as 2 pitches if you don’t have a 70m rope.

FA: Jason Leach, Shane Ohms, Kristopher Veronin; April 24, 2022.

Descent: Rap the route.

alert icon ALERT: Be aware of the HUGE objective hazard above the route. The Cantwell Glacier may calve seracs down this route. Rockfall potential is above average on this route.

Posted by: Jason Leach; March 21, 2023

Bengal Spice

Rating: WI5
Length: 110+ meters
Pitches: 3-4

This is the right most pure ice line on the Coffee Break Wall. For pitch one, pick your line on a wide curtain pouring into a slot canyon (WI3-4), continuing on moderate snow to below the pillar for a belay. From here it is probably best to climb a 30 meter pitch of WI3 to a safe belay spot at the base of the pillar to avoid rope drag, there can be a sheltered cave here. Now tackle the pillar for 20-25 meters of WI5. The first ascent was done after a period of rain that left the pillar in fairly unprotectable ice conditions. Continue on above the pillar on moderate ice to a comfortable belay. Rappel from here, or depending on conditions there could be a little more moderate ice above.

According to Nate, “Cody drinks Bengal spice tea, and the route was very spicy, hence the name.”

Descent: V Thread, From above the pillar two 70 meter rappels should get you down.

FA: Cody Klingman, Nate Bannish, & Joe Nyholm; February 4, 2023

Posted By: Joe Nyholm, February 25, 2023.

Espresso Direct

Rating: WI4+
Length: 50 meters
Pitches: 1

On the left hand side of the Coffee Break Wall. Take the obvious sustained ice prow for about 40m and then continue on moderate ice/snow for another 10m to find a bulge of ice to belay from or traverse over to join the routes to the right for more ice.

Descent: Rap (v-thread) the route.

FA: Joe Nyholm, Nate Bannish, & Cody Klingman; February 4, 2023

Posted By: Joe Nyholm, February 25, 2023.

Papa Bear

Rating: WI4
Length: 150 meters

Pitch 1 – Climb a short vertical step of ice that leads to a left leaning ramp to set a belay at the next vertical section of ice.
Pitch 2 – Climb through a short vertical section of ice to a ramp to set a belay at the main headwall of the climb.
Pitch 3 – Climb a long section of ice (50-60 meters) through varying terrain to find mushrooms of ice that lead to the top of the canyon rim.

FA: Chris Roach, Bruce Harris, & Scott Mignery, 1991.

Descent: Rap birch trees at the top to the belay at Pitch 3. V-thread on 60 meters to the base of the climb.

Plan B (BYOG)

Rating: WI4+
Length: 80 meters
Pitches: 2

Climb a first short step into a shallow bowl to the base of the proper climbing or lead through to a belay before the exit. The route exists in a narrow theatre and protection against ice fall is a must. Varying terrain allows for challenging conditions from WI4 to WI5. After the main pillar, several smaller steps of ice exist above that help with gaining a good view of the local scenery.

On the first ascent, the group bailed on a first main objective deciding to tackle Plan B. The pilot had to scramble and fly to get a loaner harness at the Caribou Creek pullout. Fortunately for him, he was able to join the team on the ascent.

Descent: Rap (v-thread) the route.

FA: Paul Guzenski, Chris Lindsey, & Mark Fleenor, February 9, 2023

War Horse

Rating: WI3
Length: 140 meters
Pitches: 3

To the left of emerald city lies two large routes. The right one is a route that rarely forms all the way down.

Descent: Rap the route. On the first ascent, the party rapped to the snow shelf on 70 meter ropes and a second rap was required to descend the first short step.

FA: Benny Lieber/Shawnee Whitehorse/Travis McAlpine, December 29, 2022

Posted by:Travis McAlpine, February 1, 2023.

Hanging Chad

Rating: WI6, M4
Length: 350 feet

Pitch 1: Approach pitch (WI3)
Short vertical step leads to low angle ice. Belay from cave on left.

Pitch 2: The Hanging Chad (WI6) 40M
Steep ice leads to more steep ice with the possibility of encountering a roof. Pillar often does not touch down. Many fixed pins in the rock from Jeff Benowitz. Belay from screws.

Pitch 3: Quartz Chimney (M4): A short, secure chimney leads to a few crux moves exiting onto a low angle snow ramp. Belay from alders.

First Complete Ascent: Tristan O’Donoghue, Grant Wilson, and Ethan Berkeland, 2023

Descent: Rap from atop the pillar or top out and walk off climber’s right down a large gulley above Gunnysack 2. Before reaching the top of the gunnysack 2, cut to skiers right which brings you back to the base of the ice climb.

Posted by: Tristan O’Donoghue, January 27, 2023.