Rating: WI4
Length: 90 meters
This route takes a mellow start of moderate terrain and steepens towards the end with a crux pillar, as for Rain Check proper. Rain Check Left takes the left, steeper pillar to the canyon rim.
FA: Bob Pudwill & Andy Embick, February 1981
Anchor: Trees and bushes are available for an easy descent.
Rating: WI4
Length: 90 meters
This route takes a mellow start of moderate terrain and steepens towards the end with a crux pillar. Rain Check proper takes the right less steep last pillar to the canyon rim.
FA: Bob Pudwill & Carl Tobin, February 1981
Anchor: Trees and bushes are available for an easy descent.
Rating: WI5
Length: 95 meters
From the canyon floor climb a snow cone located to the left of the overhanging rock wall. Above the cone climb exposed and frozen terrain that ends just above the bottom of the good ice. Rappel to the ice (bottom of the pillar) then climb the prominent left pillar to the alders above. This climb was named as a tribute to the novel “1984” by George Orwell.
FA: Steve Will & Roman Dial, January 1984
Descent: Rappel from alders or v-thread, but make sure you aim for the bolts. One can also hike the rim to the road or a safe avi chute.
Bear Creek is located approximately 17 miles from Valdez and is the first canyon to the left after leaving Keystone Canyon towards Glennallen. A bridge spanning the canyon entrance indicates you’ve found the correct location. Parking options are limited and one must always be understanding that DOT trucks constantly plow this segment of the highway. Though a good hike away, parking does exist approximately 1.5 miles east in a plowed parking lot.The route Rain Check, known by many as the route to get on when avi danger is high, is the first large piece of ice in this canyon.
Rating: WI4
Length: 90 meters
Climb ice in a right-facing corner that gets steeper as it goes up.
FA: Bob Pudwill & Bob Shelton, January 1981
Anchor: Go to the right to descend or rappel from alders or v-thread.
Rating: WI4
Length: 75 meters
Located immediately right of Matinee, this line follows the right pillars of the three main pillars leading to the alders above.
FA: Carl Tobin & Steve Will, February 1983
Anchor: Go to the right to descend or rappel from alders or v-thread.
Rating: WI4
Length: 75 meters
Located to the right of Oosik, this route consists of three pillars, one atop the other. The steepest of the climb can be found on the last pillar.
FA: Andrew Embick & Bill Lorch, January 1981
Anchor: Go to the right to descend or rappel from alders or v-thread.
The 19-Mile Wall is located 100 meters above and on the left (west) side of the highway about a half mile past Sheep Creek Canyon when driving towards Glennallen. Home to a handful of moderate to difficult routes, this area is a great location for those looking to climb in the sun. Another positive about this location is that it often has decent winter temps even when the town of Valdez is well above freezing. Parking is limited and drivers should always be mindful of DOT plow trucks.
The routes on the 17 Mile Wall exist on the (left) north side of the highway leaving Valdez. This rock rim wall is located on the east mountain just past Bear Creek valley and require more time to access than most other areas. Approach is made easier on skis after a good amount of snowfall that buries most bushes.
Valdez, Alaska is a small community located on the northeast side of Prince William Sound that is probably known to most as the terminus of one of the longest oil pipelines, the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. To adventurers, Valdez may be best known for the heli skiing in the Chugach Mountains that in 2010 includes several different outfits to fly with in Valdez. But, Valdez also has a rich history of ice climbing that began back in the 1970s.
Many world-class climbers like Jeff Lowe began visiting Valdez after word got out about the massive, multi-pitch blue ice in Keystone Canyon. He made the first ascent of Keystone Greensteps in a two day push over New Year’s Eve in 1975. But, it was really the locals that pushed the level, explored the side canyons, and discovered the classic climbs known today. The late Dr. Andy Embick arrived in Valdez in 1979 and created a community for climbers that helped foster an explosion of new routes. His house became a base camp for many that set out to climb the ice and rock in the area. It was Embick’s idea to bring climbers together that lead to the first Valdez Ice Festival in 1984 that was attended by 50 that all stayed at his house. Embick was also instrumental in pioneering new routes like the first ascent of Wowie Zowie in 1981 with Carl Tobin that pushed the standards in ice climbing higher. Others like Roman Dial, John Wieland, Chuck Comstock, Steve Garvey and Brian Teale made big contributions to route development in the ’80s. In 1989, Dr. Embick released Blue Ice & Black Gold, a comprehensive guide on the waterfall ice and mixed routes known up to that point. Later, more ice and mixed routes were established that helped solidify Valdez as a premier climbing destination.
This website extends gratitude to Brian Teale for allowing use of the Planet Ice guidebook to help develop this next generation of Valdez waterfall ice guides. Of course, it goes without saying that this online guide could not even be started without the pioneering work of the late Dr. Embick. In the spirit of Embick, this Valdez guide will continue to grow so that others can benefit. It will be a work in progress as more routes are documented in the expansive area around Valdez and the website encourages support from the community to help continue growing this Valdez ice climbing guide.
