Category: southcentral

Heads Up

Rating: WI4
Length: 80 meters
Pitches: 2

The ice on this route meanders up through a headwall of rock. Even though the rock is relatively stable in comparison to other ranges, like the Chugach, the first ascent party did encounter a few bombs that placed climbers in danger. This hazard can be mitigated with well placed belays.

A first short step of WI3 leads up 10 meters to a large shelf/snow covered area of 15 meters to the base of the objective main pillar. Climb through 35 meters to a much smaller shelf to either belay the harder, and shorter second pillar of 20 meters or climb the whole pillar in a single push. To climb the whole main pillar in a single push would likely require 70 meter ropes.

The route name was given for the first ascent where Austin was lucky to avoid a rock bomb to the face when Mark called out a last minute warning. Thanks for the spot, Mark!

Descent: Rap the route. On the first ascent, the party rapped to the snow shelf on 70 meter ropes and a second rap was required to descend the first short step.

FA: Chris Lindsey, Austin Thayer, Brett Winterbottom, Mark Flennor; March 20, 2022.

Posted by: March 21, 2022.

Little Spoon

Rating: WI4
Length: 25 meters
Pitches: 1

A gem of a route tucked right on the corner of Spoon Creek off the east side of the Matanuska about 6 miles up glacier. The route is a 10m wide curtain of blue ice with a short free hanging pillar on its far right.

FA: Brett Winterbottom, Mark Flennor; March 12, 2022.

Descent: Rap the route.

Posted by: March 15, 2022.

Puck Futin

Rating: WI 3
Length: 30 meters
Pitches: 1

Short in stature, arrogant in attitude.

This little climb exists in a side canyon with little direct sunlight. It is wide enough for two parties and deep in blue color. The route moves through a couple of steps up to a slot canyon. The avalanche danger in the area is minimal.

This route is named in support of the Ukrainian people in their struggle for freedom that at the time of the first ascent were being invaded by the Russian army.

FA: Austin Thayer, Chris Lindsey, & Seiji Ishii; March 2, 2022.

Descent: Rap the route.

Posted by: Chris Lindsey; March 2, 2022.

Turquoise Dragon

Rating: WI 5
Length: 1,300 feet
Pitches: 5 to 6

Pitch 1 is 25m WI 2/3
Pitch 2 is 25m WI 3+
200ft snow climb with two short easily solo’able WI2 pitches to base of pitch 4
Pitch 4 is 35-40m WI5
400-500ft snow climb taking eight at obvious drainage fork to base of pitch 5
Pitch 5 is 15m WI 3+

While the final pitch is worthwhile, parties who are short on time or looking to avoid the snow slog wouldn’t be missing a ton to turn at the top of pitch 4.

FA: Paul Turecki and Jim Sweeney

Descent: Rap the route.

Posted by: Forrest Voss, February 5, 2022.

G-Man

Rating: WI 4
Length: 15 meters

From Fat City and Urban Ice: “This obscure climb is located (no joke) on the Left Fork of the Right Fork of Government Creek. A two hour approach gets one to this difficult little formation on the right side of the gully. Apparently the route is clearly visible from Lazer St., beyond the airstrip on the Edgerton Parks Road which is reached by turning west from the end of the pavement just past Hatcher Pass grocery on Fishhook Road. Get your maps out for this one.”

Fortunately, we have a more current description…

From Marcin Ksok in 2022: “This route is located in Government Creek drainage above Government Peak Recreation Area. Consists of one short pitch of WI4. It is visible from the Nordic ski trails. Although we did not see any evidence of prior ascent, the high visibility of the route suggest that someone might have ventured up it in the past.”

FA: Pat Thompson, Scott Mignery, and Mike Dagon, 1987.

Descent: Rap the route.

Posted by: Marcin Ksok, January 29, 2022.

Lil’ Kahuna

Rating: WI 4
Length: 50 meters

Tucked on the north side of Mt. Wickersham

Route starts on a vertical section for 30 feet, a quick step up a low angle section to the next 30 feet of WI3 leads to a large belay ledge or you can continue up in one. Left side has a mellow WI2 ramp to a short 15ft steep chimney or punch straight through 60ft of a perfect WI4/+ face.

FA:

Descent: Rap the route.

Posted by: Brett Ryne Winterbottom, January 17, 2022

Gravy Tran

Rating: WI 4
Length: 150 meters, 3 pitches

Fat smears running down rock wall on north side of first prominent gully east of Mineral Creek. Many other ice pitches exist in immediate vicinity. Mixed pitches are also available in immediate vicinity. Variations possible. Gravy Tran proper is the most obvious and fat smear pictured. P1 WI4. P2 WI2 and snow. P3 WI3+. Be mindful of anchor placement in terms of limited availability of solid ice where belayer for next pitch can be positioned to avoid falling debris.

From John Morton, January 3, 2022: “The route flowed like gravy! Tran is the name of the friend who fueled the mission, and can make some bomber gravys.”

FA:

Descent: Rap the route.

Posted by: Mat Brunton, January 1, 2022

Chickaloon River

As the name implies, this is a river, not a creek. That distinction should come with an expectation of big country and sometimes even bigger approaches. Access may be one the biggest issues and hurdles for this drainage, as the local community of Chickaloon guards this area into their backyard with good reason. The area is remote and quiet with stunning views. The rocky peaks are outstanding and provide interesting geology which creates the perfect backdrop for backcountry ice.

These climbs will likely require a snow machine to access. Many of the prominent routes are a good distance up river. Landing strips are present nearer to the headwaters which may provide an alternative to those willing to approach by foot or ski.

  • Chickaloon River 1
  • Chickaloon River 2
  • Chickaloon River 3
  • Chickaloon River 4
  • Chickaloon River 5
  • Chickaloon River 6

Be Weary of the Far Left

Rating: WI 5
Length: 30 meters

This ice route rarely comes in and is typically a mixed route. It exists in the same general area as Soul Creation that was established by the late Eddie Phay before it collapsed. The new line travels up some interesting terrain in a right facing dihedral left of Widow Maker that in 2020 was bolted to provide access (and safety) into a quality route.

FA:

Descent: Rap the route.

Posted by: Admin, 2021-11-27