Category: southcentral

Kuskulana River

To access the climbs in the Kuskulana River Gorge area continue past the town of Chitina and cross the Copper River Bridge. Follow the McCarthy Road for about 14 miles and one will come to a long narrow bridge that spans the Kuskulana River. Drive across the bridge and park in a gravel pit to the right. Cross the road and hike along the canyon rim rappelling to the base of the routes. All of the routes are located on river left and upstream of the bridge. In other words, that would be the left hand side of the river if you were looking downstream.

Crystalline Hills 2

Rating: WI3
Length: varies, multi-pitch, 70-80 meters

Climb the pillar for 50 feet of WI3. Once the pillar is climbed, the angle kicks back and a nice bench is present for a belay. The second pitch is 100 feet of WI3-. It would be awkward to climb the route as one pitch due to the length of low angle ice between the steps.

FA:

Anchor/Descent: Be prepared to place V-threads or rap off of trees. For descent either rappel the route in two rappels, using a tree and a thread. It is also possible to walk off to the right.

Crystalline Hills

To get to the Crystalline Hills continue down the McCarthy Road past the town of Chitina until you get to the 35-mile marker. A series of dramatic peaks will be on your left. Between the 35-mile and 36-mile marker is a maintained trail with “S” sign on it. This trail offers the best access to the mountains. The closest climb is about 30 minutes up the trail. All other routes require longer more strenuous approaches.

Chitina River

The Chitina River valley and surrounding areas are home to some of the most remote ice in the state. Access in the winter months can be difficult and may require help from some of the locals. A degree of self sufficiency is required in this area because help is far from near.

CHITINA WEATHER

Southcentral Alaska

Southcentral Alaska is home to approximately 40% of the state’s population, which is why it is one of the more explored areas. Modern highways throughout the region provide easy access to ice of varying caliber. However, if you have the temptation to explore, then head for the hills. There is plenty more in the backcountry.

This area is documented in Martin Martinez‘s forum link icon South Central Guide.

ANCHORAGE WEATHER