Rating: WI5
Length in Meters: 60
Length in Pitches: 2
Overview: Two stacked pillars with the bottom one forming a thin curtain. Easier ice can be climbed on the right margin of the climb. Climb the two pillars direct in 2 pitches. WI5+
Approach: Located on bluff north of the creek about 2.5 miles from the 18 mile/DOT lot. Near the southern end of the cliff.
Descent: v-thread
FA: Ryan Sims, Mike Weber, Sam Volk; February 2018
Rating: WI4
Length: 30 meters, 1 pitch
Furthest right, highest volume flow in the amphitheater. A few body lengths of dead vertical ice then eases up a little bit the rest of the way.
FA: Ryan Sims, Galen Vansant, Sam Volk. February 2018
Descent/Anchor: v-thread
Posted by: Sam Volk
ALERT: Avalanche hazard above
Rating: M5 WI5
Length in Meters: 80
Length in Pitches: 2
Overview: Climb up, around, and through vertical pillars to the last good belay cave at the bottom of the final pillar. Climb the pillar then transition/swim through the two alders to the loose, mossy ramp leading to the hanger curtain up and right. Bring a spectre for protecting the traverse and a #2 for a nice crack above the curtain.
Approach: On the bluff north of the creek about 2.5 miles from 18 mile/DOT lot. Look for the climb with the big hanging curtain to the top right. Just left of Hartless.
Descent: There is a pecker and piton rap anchor off the top of the curtain, but I would recommend v-threading
FA: Galen Vansant, Ryan Sims, Sam Volk February 2018
Objective Hazards: Loose rock on traverse
Park at the 18 mile DOT gravel shed pullout. Sled/ski back the Lowe River until it forks off and Wortmann’s Creek is on the right. There is usually some open water to negotiate in the canyon right before the creek opens up into a broad glacial valley.
Rating: WI4
Length in Meters: 20
Length in Pitches: 1
Tsina Bridge pillar offers excellent top rope options and is a small amphitheater of ice with virtually no approach.
Descent: Alder or bolted anchor
Objective Hazards: If you’re down there after a fresh snow be aware that the plow truck will knock a small avalanche of snow off the bridge down onto you.
Submitted by: Matthew Tucker
Rating: WI5
Length: 95 meters
This route is steep with no real ledges. A hanging belay is probably necessary to complete the last pillar.
FA: Chuck Comstock & Bill Lorch, January 1982
Anchor: Walk down the hydro power plant pipelines to Dayville Road.
This steep walled canyon is located just after the Solomon Gulch Hydroelectric Plant off Dayville Road. Dayville Road provides access to the Pipeline Terminal along the south shore of the Valdez Arm. A large pool of water with a pipeline along the east wall indicates you are in the correct location. Parking is probably best at the plowed lots nearby.
Rating: WI6-
Length: 200 meters
Translated, the name of this route means “hanging bell”, which refers to the free hanging pillar on the third pitch of this route. The first pitch is moderate ice or mixed, followed by a second pitch of moderate ice. The third pitch consists of an awesome, sometimes formed, free hanging pillar.
FA: Bob Shelton & Shigeki Nakayama, February 1985
Anchor: Walk to the left at the canyon rim to the avi chute past Secret Journey.
Rating: WI5-
Length: 165 meters
This route shares the same start as Tsuri Gane for 50 meters up a shallow groove. The second pitch climbs left through moderate ice and snow to the base of the third pitch consisting of a vertical pillar. Follow another pitch or two up moderate terrain to the alders above.
FA: John Weiland & Yuwa Yamazaki, February 1985
Anchor: Walk to the left at the canyon rim to the avi chute past Secret Journey.
Rating: WI4
Length: 80 meters
One of the first routes located in the major ice cirque wall, climb an apron from the canyon floor to an ice pillar that splits the rock wall above.
FA: Bob Crawford & Martin Martinez, February 1988
Anchor: Rappel the route via alders or v-thread.
