Rating: WI5
Length: 375 meters
Climb a pitch of ice and frozen ground to reach the thicker ice. From there expect short pillars and moderate ice to reach the top vertical pillars. The route ends at the canyon rim. The top pillar is visible from the highway.
FA: Bob O’Brien & Dan McCabe, March 1983
Anchor: A walk off exists to the right at the canyon rim.
Rating: WI5
Length: 180 meters
This is the major ice route to the left of Tokyo Express. Climb a snow chute and moderate ice for two pitches to the base of a vertical pillar.
FA: Bob Shelton & John Weiland, January 1985
Anchor: Walk left to the obvious avi chute to descend.
Rating: WI5
Length: 350 meters
Located between Spring Loaded and Stem City on the right (north) wall, this route starts on thin ice or mixed conditions leading to a committing pillar.
FA: Bob Crawford & Karl Swanson
Anchor: Rappel the route via alders or v-thread.
Rating: WI3
Length: 60 meters
Climb snow and ice to better ice above.
FA: Andrew Embick & Carol Tobin, February 1981
Descent: A walk off exists to the right or rappel off alders or v-thread.
The Sheep Creek drainage is approximately 18.5 miles from Valdez and is the second canyon on the left after driving out of Keystone Canyon towards Glennallen. Keep an eye out for Angel and Spring Loaded which can be seen from the highway on the east wall of the canyon. This canyon is also home to some first ascents by Japanese climbers that were hosted by the locals. Host to a number of moderate to hard routes of good length, this canyon is also very prone to extreme avalanches. Know the conditions before venturing into this area. Parking is not always apparent. A plowed pullout to Heiden View is approximately 200 yards east of the bridge. Wherever you park please be mindful of DOT plow trucks.
A portion of this area is documented in a handwritten guide found in a Canmore bookstore. 
French Trip Sheep Creek Guide
Rating: WI6
Length: 120 meters
The first pitch consists of a long section of overhanging ice that retreats in angle on the left side. A shorter section leads up to the base of the final crux pillar that continues to deliver more steep overhanging ice. First ascent party chopped out a belay to the right of the final pillar to allow access on to the final pillar.
FA: Andrew Embick & Carl Tobin, 1981
Anchor: Alders are available for a rappel.
ALERT: This route like most in the area exists is prone to avalanches. Pay attention to the snow conditions before accessing this route.
Rating: WI4
Length: 50 meters
This route consists of a wide curtain at the base that narrows towards the top. The last 25 meters is the crux, vertical pillar.
FA: Roman Dial & Steve Will, January 1981
Anchor: Alders are available for a rappel.
ALERT: This route like most in the area exists is prone to avalanches. Pay attention to the snow conditions before accessing this route.
Rating: WI4
Length: 55 meters
This route usually consists of thin ice conditions over visible running water. As such, waiting to access this route until it is cold is good advice.
FA: Ken Leary & Mark Lockwood, 1985
Anchor: Alders are available for a rappel.
ALERT: This route like most in the area exists is prone to avalanches. Pay attention to the snow conditions before accessing this route.
Rating: WI5
Length: 65 meters
The first pitch consists of a steep ramp to an ice mushroom lying below the final pillar. A belay can be found in alders to the right for the next pitch which consists of a vertical to slightly overhanging 100 foot plus pillar. The route takes its name from a delicate tool removal by Embick on the first ascent.
FA: Andrew Embick & Martin Leonard, January 1985
Anchor: Alders are available for a rappel.
ALERT: This route like most in the area exists is prone to avalanches. Pay attention to the snow conditions before accessing this route.
Rating: WI4
Length: 180 meters
This route climbs 350 feet of a right slanting ramp to an 150 foot pillar.
FA: Andrew Embick & Chuck Comstock, January 1982
Anchor: Alders are available for a rappel.
ALERT: This route like most in the area exists is prone to avalanches. Pay attention to the snow conditions before accessing this route.
