Category: southcentral

Hooligan

Rating: WI2
Length: 25 meters

This route consists of a short slab or pillar to the left of Foolagain that dead ends at the headwall under Glass Onion. It exists to the right of Simple Twist of Fate.

FA: Bob Pudwill & Dave Berg, March 1980

Descent: Descend by walking to the left on a wide ledge and down climbing a snow chute below Simple Twist of Fate or rappel off of alders to the right of the route.

Hanging Tree

Hanging Tree Left
Rating: WI4
Length: 35 meters

This is the left and taller pillar of the two. Climb through steep ice and through the left leaning gully above the main pillar.

FA: Andrew Embick, Dana Hollister & Carl Tobin, March 1980

Anchor: Hike right and over to Snowslide Gulch to descend.

Hanging Tree Right
Rating: WI4
Length: 35 meters

This is the right and shorter pillar of the two. Climb through less steep ice and through the left leaning gully above the main pillar.

FA: Jim Jennings & Carl Tobin, December 1977

Anchor: Hike right and over to Snowslide Gulch to descend.

Glass Onion

Rating: WI5-
Length: 120 meters

This route exists directly above Hooligan. History reports that it has actually connected to Hooligan in better years, forming a 100 foot pillar. Until that happens again, gain access by traversing in from the left after climbing the first pitch of Simple Twist of Fate, then climb through steep ice to the upper part of the right leaning pillar. The name is a tribute to John Lennon who had been shot recently in New York City.

FA: Carl Tobin & Roman Dial, January 1981

Anchor: 300 foot ropes allow rappel to the top of Hooligan. Otherwise, gain access to the pipeline road, head right to access a prominent chute for a walk off.

Flying Cloud

Rating: WI5+
Length: 110 meters

This route forms up left of Bridalveil Falls. From the definitive guidebook, Blue Ice and Black Gold, the first ascent had been advertised in the newspaper as a public demonstration of ice-climbing on Bridalveil for the Valdez Winter Carnival. Arriving on the scene the first ascensionists, feeling bold, opted for a new route instead. Scores of onlookers gawked, some for hours at a time, but none stayed for the full duration (eight hours) of slow painstaking climbing on this intricate formation.

FA: Andy Embick & Bill Lorch, February 1981.

Descent: Rappel from alders.

Bridalveil Falls

Rating: WI5
Length: 250 meters

This route consists of five main pillars separated by lower angle sections usually filled with snow. The ice is usually fat and deep blue. Climb the first pillar to the left cave to find a nice three anchor bolt belay. Climb through the next two pillars to end the second pitch below the crux of the route, the “Killer Pillar”. Climb though the pillar in a single pitch to finish one more pitch to the end.

FA: Jim Jennings, Clif Moore & Carl Tobin, December 1977

Anchor: A walk off exists to the right via avi chute or rappel via v-thread / anchor. Recent personal experience suggest that climbers should be prepared to rap the route. Gaining access to the avi chute can be very difficult in high snowfall periods.

alert icon ALERT: It is highly recommended that you use 70 meter ropes on this route to avoid awkward belays and dangerous belay stations.

Keystone Canyon

Valdez ice climbing is most well known for Keystone Canyon because of accessibility, quality, and length of routes. The Canyon exists approximately 13 miles outside of Valdez and most routes require only a 5 to 10 minute hike to the base to reach multi-pitch, deep blue ice. Keystone Greensteps and Bridalveil Falls are the signature routes in the canyon but numerous other quality routes abound. Not too many other areas in the world exist with such high caliber waterfall ice as Keystone Canyon.

This narrow canyon is carved out by the Lowe River, leaving a 800 foot cut just large enough to allow for the Lowe River and Richardson Highway to pass through. In addition, the Trans Alaska Pipeline uses this corridor on the top of the east canyon wall to make its way to the terminal in Valdez. Keystone Canyon creates its own micro-climate because of the extreme nature of the geology. This narrow pass can constrict and increase the velocity of wind and lead to incredibly interesting ice formations like the bells and umbrellas found on Hung Jury. Simply put, this place is a must see for every ice climbing aficionado and adventurer alike.