Rating: WI5
Length: 400 feet
Pitches: 3
P1: A massive dagger that is situated in an overhanging alcove. It would take a really fat year to see this beast touch down into one epic pillar. Until then, expect an M-hard mixed route (unequipped).
**A hike around climbers left, followed by a rappel into the drainage exists to get you to the base of P2.**
P2: Consists of a few short steps of WI3 with a 20′ curtain of vertical ice in the middle.
P3: The $$ pitch! A lower ramp leads to beautiful vertical flow of ice. This will catch your eye from the road!
FA:
Descent: Rappel route using v-threads and alders. Alternately, climb out of drainage and hike off climbers left or right.
Posted by: Steve Job, November 10, 2020.
Lat/Long: 61°23'43.1"N 143°36'07.0"W
Start several hundred yards west of the Crystalline Hills trailhead and head into the woods looking for the drainage (likely dry) that leads straight up to the climb. It can be subtle and hard to find at first, but once you do, it's an easy shot to the climb. A few drainages will feed into this one, but keep right and head for the notch in the mountain above the climb.
Alt approach: Hike up the Crystalline Hills TH as if you were approaching Climb 2. Once you reach the lower cliff band that makes up Climb 2, traverse under it to the left until you can surmount it. From atop, you should be able to catch a glimpse of the climb. Take the path of least resistance. Eventually, pink flagging tape will lead to a drainage climbers right, but can be helpful.
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