Rating: WI3-WI4
Length: 25 meters
This route can be somewhat thin on the lower sections and protection can be non-existent. Different variations are possible on the ascent for this route including some nice mixed climbing. On a good year of ice conditions, this route can be relatively easy and good protection will exist throughout the climb.
FA:
Anchor: Large trees exist at the top of this route for an anchor.
ALERT: The Eklutna Canyon drainage is private property belonging to Eklutna Incorporated and their website indicates ice climbing is not allowed on their property. It is strongly suggested that before venturing into the canyon, check with the climbing groups within the community regarding the current access status for the canyon. Alaska State Parks require vehicles parking in the Thunderbird Falls Trailhead parking lot to have a current Alaska State Parks parking pass.
Lat: 61 26.776' North
Long: 149 22.022' West
Two approach possibilities exist for this route. The easiest is to take the Thunderbird Falls and hike about 5-10 minutes until the trail comes close to the canyon edge. Hike over to the top of this route and rap down. This route is popular so be sure to yell before throwing your rope over. The second option is to head upriver approximately 10 minutes until one comes to this route on the south side of the canyon.
Please avoid top roping and or climbing on this when it is first forming, as it will get beat to death and then not form well for the rest of the year.
This climb does not flow all winter, so once it “shuts off” it will likely not form. Give it a chance to grow.