Rating: WI3
Length: 60-65 meters
This climb always forms nicely from year to year and as such is probably the most popular climb in the canyon. Climb a sometimes imposing vertical step of 40 feet to less than vertical ice to a bolt anchor in the rock on the right. Climb the second pitch of moderate terrain to the finish. Don’t let the less difficult section of the climb trick you into not placing protection through to the finish. Another option is to set up a toprope after the first pitch on a tree on the left to climb some more difficult terrain.
FA: Paul Denkewalter and Gary Bocarde
Anchor: Bolts are located on the left facing rock face immediately above the first curtain. On the right hand side above the curtain is a tree. Bolts located on a right facing rock face exist at the top of the climb.
ALERT: The Eklutna Canyon drainage is private property belonging to Eklutna Incorporated and their website indicates ice climbing is not allowed on their property. It is strongly suggested that before venturing into the canyon, check with the climbing groups within the community regarding the current access status for the canyon. Alaska State Parks require vehicles parking in the Thunderbird Falls Trailhead parking lot to have a current Alaska State Parks parking pass.
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After a 30-45 minute hike up the canyon, one will find Ripple. This is the most consistent forming climb in the canyon on the south wall.
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