Luckyman

Rating: WI3/4
Length: 120 meters

Luckyman is a two pitch climb that can be climbed in several ways. The most straight forward is to climb moderate ice up to a narrow diehedral with rock on the left and ice on the right. Once in the diehedral one can find alders midway up the climb that make for excellent protection or belay stations. From the alders at the diehedral lead straight up to a vertical curtain of ice that may or may not be protectable. If a pillar isn’t your style lead up and to the right from the diehedral until topping out in the alders on the ridge.

FA: Charlie Sassara & Robert Frank, 1982

Anchor: Many alder bushes exist on the route for the rappel stations. Bring v-thread material just in case.

ALERT: Avalanche danger exists in this area. Know your surroundings and know the conditions!

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Take the Portage Glacier Road from the Seward Highway as if going to Whittier. Drive approximately 4 miles to the Williwaw Camp Ground and parking area. If the lot is plowed park there; however, if the parking area isn't plowed be prepared to drive to the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center (another mile down the road) and approach by foot. From the Williwaw parking area find the obvious trailhead beginning at the south side of campground. (Note: The area may be used sometimes by snow machiners so be on the lookout for traffic.) Hike the trail along a well maintained boardwalk until one finds easy passage through the brush to the Middle Glacier drainage. Hike the drainage upstream into the valley. Luckyman is the largest climb located on the right (west) side of the valley.