Rating: WI6, M4
Length: 350 feet
Pitch 1: Approach pitch (WI3)
Short vertical step leads to low angle ice. Belay from cave on left.
Pitch 2: The Hanging Chad (WI6) 40M
Steep ice leads to more steep ice with the possibility of encountering a roof. Pillar often does not touch down. Many fixed pins in the rock from Jeff Benowitz. Belay from screws.
Pitch 3: Quartz Chimney (M4): A short, secure chimney leads to a few crux moves exiting onto a low angle snow ramp. Belay from alders.
First Complete Ascent: Tristan O’Donoghue, Grant Wilson, and Ethan Berkeland, 2023
Descent: Rap from atop the pillar or top out and walk off climber’s right down a large gulley above Gunnysack 2. Before reaching the top of the gunnysack 2, cut to skiers right which brings you back to the base of the ice climb.
Posted by: Tristan O’Donoghue, January 27, 2023.
Lat/Long: 63.5256172/-145.8138748 Approx 2.5 Miles up creek. Approach the Chad via a chossy corner to a cave to belay from.
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Way to go. Looks awesome. The University Wall climbs are likely in also and perhaps Forgiveness. Go Tell it on the Mountain is fun if not for being a tad problematic.