Rating: WI4
Length: 100 meters, 2 pitches
Several options exist for climbing to the hollow pillar. On the right, one can climb some gradual ice to a good ice anchor below the hollow pillar. On the left, a nice 40 foot pillar exists which provides a good warmup. Climb over this step and up a gradual snow field to solid anchors in the ice. If this left side is chosen to start the climb it becomes a little tricky to get on the best side, the right side, of the hollow pillar. However, climbing the right side keeps the belayer out of harm’s way when invariably some ice will come off during the climb. Traverse right and get on the pillar which can be very thin. The second pitch climbs the pillar proper. Be sure not to swing to hard once on the pillar. Steep ice leads one through the crux and to the finish. This is an awesome and scary route.
FA: Conrad Guenther & Bruce Roberts, 1985
Anchor: Alder bushes exist above the second pitch to rappel. A V-thread is necessary to get down safely off the first pitch.
ALERT: It is possible that the climber or follower on the second pitch can break through the pillar and fall inside the ice tube and be stuck with no ice to climb on. Be prepared with an escape plan in the event the climber falls inside the hollow pillar because you will be getting wet very quickly or may become stuck inside the pillar.
Lat: 61 11.447' North
Long: 149 15.233' West
After leaving the Eagle River Nature Center, one will arrive at Echo Bend after about 45 minutes to an hour hike. Hollow is the very prominent steep pillar in view. Leave the trail when it comes down to the river. Cross the river and head directly across. Hike up through the drainage for this icefall until one gets to the bottom of the climb.
Hollow Icicle from Vertical Addictions on Vimeo.
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