October 2024 –
Just in time for the start of 24/25 ice climbing season, we here at AIC are super stoked to bring yet another installment to our ongoing conversations / interviews with those who have and continue to shape the sport of ice climbing in the Last Frontier. We hope you have a great ice season and without further ado, our conversation with Charlie Sassara….
AIC: What was your very first ice climb in Alaska?
CS: It’s hard to remember. It may have been the summer of 78 when we were scrapping around on the ice cliffs of Middle Glacier. The first actual waterfall was likely Roadside Attraction the year it formed after the DOT widened the HWY. I bought some tools from AMH then teamed up with Brian Cannard and Vern Tejas and waited for it to freeze. Why? I wanted to climb almost since I was aware of anything. From building super exposed tree forts, to jumping between trees, structures, monkey bars and houses. Climbing and exploring the vertical was just a natural extension of play.
AIC: What is the oldest piece of ice climbing gear you continue to hold in your possession today?
CS: As soon as there was a better tool I traded up. The only “old” gear I have are a pair of BD Sabretooth crampons I found at Hoarding Marmot as they were so good at climbing junk. It makes little sense to hang on to gear when it continues to evolve and improve. That said, I still have a few of those large hexcentric chocks from the rack I bought in 77.
AIC: Who was your first climbing mentor or influences in climbing?
CS: Good question. In the beginning there was no one, it was just desire. That said it wouldn’t be until late 77 that I tied in and sieged some smaller cliffs in Yosemite. Locally, there was only Allen Julliard who I tried to emulate. Mostly because he would (and still does) move so smoothly.
AIC: Have you ever approached an ice climb, only then to turn back because you didn’t feel it that day? What did you take away from that experience?
CS: All the time. I backed off nearly all the main ice routes in Portage Valley at one time or another, mostly because of the feeling they evoked or to wind or warm temp changes. Early on I learned to trust my instincts, but later I worked to understand where that “feeling “was coming from. Teasing out objective factors from my subjective viewpoint was one of my first practices.
What did I take away? Don’t be afraid to turn around and that “Choice” is liberating.
AIC: Can you talk about what ice climb scared you the most and why? Did you end up climbing it?
CS: In the mid 90’s Sharon Wood (first NA woman to climb Everest and first to climb it’s West Ridge) and I agreed to try Sea of Vapors near Banff a 4-pitch route that on a bad day clocks in at WI7+ with barely any pro. (PS: On a good day, Sea of Vapors is a WI5!) The night before our climb I couldn’t sleep. The next morning all bright-eyed and nervous I arrived at our meet-up spot. After waiting almost an hour I called Sharon’s house to learn that her car wouldn’t start. With the late start, we had lost our opportunity, and it was over. Instead of disappointment I was instantly relieved. The kind of relief that comes with, “I ‘m not gonna die today” kind of feeling. Later when we finally did meet up, we celebrated by climbing a lovey long easy route and laughed the whole day. Sharon’s husband later admitted that Sharon hadn’t slept a wink either. Once saved from our ambition, we never went back.
AIC: You’ll always be known for your alpine accomplishments. Do you have any ice climbing accomplishments that many are not aware of?
CS: Some big climbs off the Chitna River towards the Canadian border. One was a 150m pillar that Carlos Buhler and I climbed named “Birdman” (after Paul Claus’s son Jay). Another good one was a 350m mixed line Allen Juiiard and I did on the big wall to the east (right) of “Hands Across the Water”. We named it “Lead Card” after considering the silly yellow ‘“Alaska Rock Gym” lead card hanging from Allen’s harness.
AIC: When was the last time you put in stubby ice screw on lead?
CS: Hated them from the very beginning. They are just too short for me to place one handed. If it was that thin, I would girth hitch a medium length screw, try a Spectre or place a pin.
AIC: Talking ropes, do you prefer single, doubles, or twins when climbing ice?
CS: Modern single thin 70m 8.5 to-9.0mm with a 5-6mm rap line. I used to love doubles but hated their weight.
AIC: And what about crampons…single or double point? Horizontal or vertical points?
CS: That’s like asking which club for round of golf. For me it depends on the nature of the ice, the boots and the temperatures. Mostly I like the vertical mono points that Grivel makes.
AIC: To many, you are known as talkative, but not boastful. Proud, but willing to take a seat in the back. Always enthusiastic and encouraging no matter the audience, yet you keep the good beta close to your chest. In your own words, how did you become this type of person? Influences?
CS: Our family homesteaded near Goose Bay and started the Yacht Club at Bike Lake so I grew up playing outdoors almost exclusively. Very early on I became fascinated with the North Face of Pioneer. It just looked so cool. Later we moved to Anchorage where I got into dirt bikes and snowmachines, which would see us ride from Rodgers Park to Flat Top after school. We wrecked a lot, but we were completely self-sufficient. In the 5h grade four of us hiked up Rabbit Creek over the pass north of Ptarmigan, spent the night then hiked to Glenn Alps without adults. It was this commitment to self-sufficiency, where we learned how to navigate and take care of ourselves. Mostly we were totally into going further.
During the period between collage and career I struggled to find a balance between my dream of climbing professionally and pursuing some sort of business career. In many ways the conflict between “Follow your heart” and “What you should do” is a common experience, but to say I was passionate about climbing would be a gross understatement. For example, in January 1980 I buy my first ice axes and climb Roadside Attraction, try a new route on Mt Deborah three months later, spend two years in Bellingham rock climbing and finishing college, make the first winter ascent of Denali’s West Rib and lead my first aid pitch at 25,000’ on the West Pillar of Makalu. All in four years’ time.
The period was not without loss or conflict. I got married – divorced and lost my first climbing partner; Robert Frank when he died falling off the Denali’s West Rib during our winter ascent.
In the end the inherent conflicts between hard high altitude climbing and career were too great. Makalu demonstrated that I wasn’t mature enough to handle the serious nature of technical routes at 8000M. Half the climbers I admired died and the experience of losing my sense of self-preservation high on Makalu scared the crap out of me.
Back in Alaska I climbed at every opportunity, working in various professional fields, but mostly muddling up my future. Over time I found my professional niche in Arctic Construction & Project Development which permitted me to explore my Alaskan climbing interests and help found the original Alaska Rock Gym in 1995.
AIC: Tell us about your time at the helm of AAC like how did you get there? What were you able to accomplish? What did you take away?
CS: My time at the AAC is a bit ironic. I grew up thinking Clubs were sort of dumb but joined the AAC to gain an endorsement and attempt Makalu in 1984. It was just self-interest. Later I got involved with AAC to address proposed access regulation with NPS at Denali. As time went on, I just kept saying yes to invites by AAC Leadership and ended up as President. The experience was awesome. The people I came to know, the access and development questions we addressed and the friends I made really helped me see the world in different light. During my tenure we bought Hueco Rock Ranch, started campground development at the New River Gorge and the Gunks, secured the Teton facility, renewed our relationship with the Access Fund, rewrote our vison and mission statement and grew membership by almost 30%. It was a great experience and I’m thankful I wasn’t too much of snob to refuse the opportunity when it was presented. Besides learning to say yes to opportunity, the other big lesson was to not be afraid of making institutional changes.
AIC: Hypothetical situation – you find yourself sipping coffee and chatting with a group of young and enthusiastic climbers. One of them asks you to share any bits of wisdom on the sport of climbing (rock, ice, bouldering, alpine, etc.) that you feel would help mold them into better climbers…maybe better individuals.
CS: Pick partners you are compatible, you trust, who have similar motivations, and you know are tough as shit. Outside of a rock gym type environment or local craging you really need to know your partner has your back. This is not an easy task and one you should not compromise. You need to have the discipline to go it alone.
AIC: What led you into sailing and what is your next big sailing adventure?
CS: Sailing was originally my father’s passion, so we grew up with boats. Fact is by my 24th birthday I had already sailed to Belize, the Bahamas, worked the family’s charter boat in Prince William Sound and made a passage through the Panama Canal to Los Angeles before I ever climbed a waterfall. Most these experiences were with my father or grandfather.
In the spring of 2024, I finished a 6-week trip from NC to the Bahamas of about 2000 miles. I can tell you that Climate Change was not kind to the weather this year.
AIC: What will you be on your plate for dinner tonight?
CS: I’m visiting Mimi’s Mom, so likely some classic Southern dish with plenty of butter and Sweet Tea!
