Rating: WI4/5
Length: 103 meters
Pitches: 2-3
The route was given its name to pay homage to Dragonfly Falls near Healy as its where most Fairbanks climbers first get their taste of ice.
P1: Climb sustained ice to a small shelf or cave on the left side to avoid a semi-hanging belay, 40m
P2: From P1 anchor climb up and right regaining steep ice, sustained WI4 for 50m until the angle lessens. continue up 13m of low angle ice and snow to a large chunk of ice on the right side where you can build a comfortable belay anchor. Can be done as 2 pitches if you don’t have a 70m rope.
FA: Jason Leach, Shane Ohms, Kristopher Veronin; April 24, 2022.
Descent: Rap the route.
ALERT: Be aware of the HUGE objective hazard above the route. The Cantwell Glacier may calve seracs down this route. Rockfall potential is above average on this route.
Posted by: Jason Leach; March 21, 2023
Lat/Long: 63.434722, -149.383889 Park at the plowed pullout on the west side of the Parks highway near mile marker 200. Ski or snowmachine west to Cantwell Creek. Follow the creek to the Denali Park wilderness boundary. if on snowmachine PARK HERE and ski the remaining 6 miles to the glacial moraine at the headwaters of Cantwell Creek. Great campspots abound. The climb is on the ENE face partially blocked from view by a spine coming down from a rocky face south of the glacier. Walk around large snow bowl to access the base of the ice.
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