Rating: WI3-4
Length: 350 meters
This climb snakes up the front face of the peak in the main, prominent gully. It consists of several pillars and Class IV terrain. The first pitch starts with a 25-30 meter pillar followed by low angle terrain. The next pitch follows through several short steps that ends at a large boulder in the gully. This boulder provides protection from falling ice and rock from above. Ice may not form on this boulder and a 3 to 4 meter mixed section may be required to get over the boulder followed by moderate terrain that ends at a steep pillar. Climb through a 3 to 5 meter vertical pillar followed by several hundred meters of more moderate terrain to the finish.
FA:
Anchor/Descent: A rappel of this winding route may end up being the crux. As an alternative, one can walk off the peak after ascending the route. After leaving the ice at the top of the route, stay left up through loose talus for a 100 feet. Traverse right under the large rock outcrop and walk your way down a long boulder field. Stay left out of the drainage to avoid a steep drop off on the right during descent.
Lat:
Long:
Hike approximately 1.5 hours across tundra making your way up to the base of the first pillar. It helps to stay out of the drainage for the pillar on the approach to avoid the loose boulder field on the walk up.
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