Rating: WI5
Length: 250 meters
This route consists of five main pillars separated by lower angle sections usually filled with snow. The ice is usually fat and deep blue. Climb the first pillar to the left cave to find a nice three anchor bolt belay. Climb through the next two pillars to end the second pitch below the crux of the route, the “Killer Pillar”. Climb though the pillar in a single pitch to finish one more pitch to the end.
FA: Jim Jennings, Clif Moore & Carl Tobin, December 1977
Anchor: A walk off exists to the right via avi chute or rappel via v-thread / anchor. Recent personal experience suggest that climbers should be prepared to rap the route. Gaining access to the avi chute can be very difficult in high snowfall periods.
ALERT: It is highly recommended that you use 70 meter ropes on this route to avoid awkward belays and dangerous belay stations.
Lat: 61 04.192 N
Long: 145 53.957 W
This is the second longest route in the canyon that exists on the east side of the canyon, left of Simple Twist of Fate. Park in the large pullout directly across from the route and hike down and across the Lowe River to gain access to the base of the route.
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