Rating: M7 WI5
Length: 70 meters
Pitches: 2-3
This route is 20-30ft right of Sword in the Sword in the Stone Room. Climb through 2 shelves of steep ice blobs to a skinny pillar that ends on a horizontal mossy seam. Continue up and slightly right through 4 bolts and 2 pins to a dagger. Above the dagger is a 2 bolt anchor (slightly left) on the rock face below the next curtain. Belay here or continue up thin ice out right to gain the upper ice (steep for about 15m).
Ice anchor at the top of the steeps. Long wi3 pitch trending left takes you to the top. There’s a 2 bolt anchor at right of the base of the final wi3 bulge.
FA: Travis McAlpine, Benjamin Lieber, Elliot Gaddy; January 21, 2023.
Descent: Rap the route.
Posted by: Ben Lieber; March 18, 2023
Lat/Long:
Travel on Knik Lake until the glacier butts up against the rock. Look up and right- the wall is obvious.
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