Rating: WI4
Length: 80 meters, 2 pitches
Low angle Start, steep crux middle, smears and small pillars to finish a classic.
FA: Martin Martinez, December 1993.
Descent: Big trees and plenty of ice to v-thread
Posted by: Michael Meyers
ALERT: Friday Creek is in a backcountry wilderness area. It is uncertain if any access issues exist for this area. If you brave driving your vehicle out, be aware that vandalism and theft may occur in this secluded area. DO NOT LEAVE VALUABLES IN YOUR VEHICLE UNATTENDED.
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Long:
Once you get to Friday Creek and it starts to narrow walk about 1 mile, you can't miss this fat ice on the left.
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Climbed Octave on Feb 28, 2021. It was in great shape. Some rotten ice on the left line with sketchy ginormous icicles that had to be navigated on the rappel, but the right line was in great shape. Did the lower approach section unroped and then did the rest in 2 pitches using 70mm half ropes. Good sling anchor at the top. No v-thread needed if you use the tree above the first steep section on skiers right as an anchor for the last rappel.