Sword in the Stone

Rating: WI6, M7
Length: 60 meters, 2 pitches

Steep rock, ice blobs, and steep ice. An ever changing venue of steep ice. 9 bolts to a two bolt anchor accesses the ice. A bolt and piton protect the access to the upper steep ice. Continue 20 meters of lower angle ice to a two bolt anchor. Anchor is easily reached for rappelling in. The ice in this venue appears to change yearly.

FA: Travis McAlpine and Mark Moeller, 2018

Anchor/Descent: Bolted anchors

Posted by: Travis McAlpine

alert icon ALERT: Knik Gorge lies in or adjacent to private property areas. It is uncertain if any access issues exist for this area. Check with the local climbing groups within the community to determine the current access issues for this area. Also, vandalism and theft have been high at times in this secluded area. DO NOT LEAVE VALUABLES IN YOUR VEHICLE UNATTENDED.

The pinch of the gorge is a hazardous place. Fresh glacier icefall, thin approach ice on the lake, and some potential hazardous travel may be encountered. Rappelling in will bypass most of these hazards.

Lat: 61.37136726770132
Long: -148.59301175538485

Approach from the pinch from above or by continuing through the pinch to first alcove on right.

Send us your video of this route.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Sword in the Stone
Sword in the Stone
Sword in the Stone
Sword in the Stone
Sword in the Stone
Sword in the Stone