Every summer one is bound to start craving for the ice to return. Thankfully, Alaskans have the Matanuska Glacier. In the summer months, one can find plastic like conditions on the seracs and other formations at the Matanuska Glacier that provide some excellent training. Just look for your favorite wall of ice and go for it. The tongue of the glacier lies on private property and a road takes you within several hundred feet of the ice. In the fall of every year, be sure not to miss the annual weekend climbing festival put on by Mountaineering Club of Alaska. In years past the festival has attracted many novice and even sponsored climbers.
Head north from Anchorage about two hours on the Glenn Highway to mile 102 and the entrance to the Glacier Park Resort. Head down the road, cross the Matanuska River and stop at the visitor center. A day fee is required to enter the resort to climb. Camping spots are also available for a fee. Depending on how soon the winter comes back to the Matanuska Valley, the last date for climbing at the resort can vary. Check with the resort before heading out.
More recently, exploration up the glacier has lead to a number of new backcountry discoveries. These routes are remote and are open to those willing to venture far for a wilder experience.
