Rating: WI 5
Length: 1,300 feet
Pitches: 5 to 6
Pitch 1 is 25m WI 2/3
Pitch 2 is 25m WI 3+
200ft snow climb with two short easily solo’able WI2 pitches to base of pitch 4
Pitch 4 is 35-40m WI5
400-500ft snow climb taking eight at obvious drainage fork to base of pitch 5
Pitch 5 is 15m WI 3+
While the final pitch is worthwhile, parties who are short on time or looking to avoid the snow slog wouldn’t be missing a ton to turn at the top of pitch 4.
FA: Paul Turecki and Jim Sweeney
Descent: Rap the route.
Posted by: Forrest Voss, February 5, 2022.
Lat/Long: 61.88153, -148.58675 Snow machine or ski the 11.5 miles up the Permanenti trail at mile 71.8 of the Glenn Highway eventually following Kings river. Then take the split up the West fork of Kings river and the climb should be visible from the trail just after the split. Recommended you pass the climb slightly and then cut back to avoid alders directly underneath drainage of the climb.
Send us your video of the climb.
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