Rating: WI3 M3/4X
Length: 150-160m
Pitches: 3-4
The name was a joke on the trip from the movie “The Other Guys.”
P1: If you brought them, pickets could be used as an anchor from the snow chute while climbing left and up 25m across unprotectable rock to gain the base of low angle ice in a narrow gully. M3X 25m
P2: Climb thin ice and steep snow with little pro up to the base of the steeper pillar. WI2/steep snow 45m
P3: 70-80 degree ice, sustained for 50m leads to 13m of low angle ice and snow in a tight canyon. There are two pitons here in a crack on climbers left as a 70m rope won’t reach the small blob of ice used for decent. Belay here or bring a longer rope. WI3 63m
P4, Optional: Belay a climber up to the small blob and build a thread to descend or use pins to rap. 10m steep snow.
FA: Jason Leach, Ryan Ellicott, Shane Ohms; March 19, 2023.
Descent: Rap the route.
ALERT: Rockfall potential is above average on this route.
Posted by: Jason Leach; March 21, 2023.
Lat/Long: 63.424722, -149.3825 Park at the plowed pullout on the west side of the Parks highway near mile marker 200. Ski or snowmachine west to Cantwell Creek. Follow the creek to the Denali Park Wilderness Boundary. If on snowmachine PARK HERE and ski the remaining 6 miles to the glacial moraine at the headwaters. Great camp spots abound. The climb is on the ENE face, P1 start after ~250m of 40-50 degree snow climbing that will take you to a level spot above a house sized boulder. Cross the snow filled chute and gain the rock for the start of the climb.
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