Rating: WI2 5.6
Length: 2,300 Feet
This is a steep avalanche gully with numerous tricky ice steps of up to Grade III difficulty. It is not one of the “Beer Climbs”. The route is found on the north side of Pioneer Peak to the left of the primary avalanche gully below the summit. The route does not go to the summit however and tops out on a knife edge ridge via a 5.6 chimney.
FA: Karl Swanson & Dave Miller, 1985
Descent: Descend to the right via a large snowfield and traverse down to a snow or rock gully.
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actually climbed by Karl Swanson and Dave Miller in 1985 and was not named as it was felt to be a FA of note. Fun fact the crux chock stone move of WI 2 to 4 depending on conditions can be end run from behind with some 5.5 spelunking moves totally avoiding the often overhanging dry tool nature of the lean years
Ever been skied?