Rating: WI4+
Length: 80 meters
Pitches: 2
Climb a first short step into a shallow bowl to the base of the proper climbing or lead through to a belay before the exit. The route exists in a narrow theatre and protection against ice fall is a must. Varying terrain allows for challenging conditions from WI4 to WI5. After the main pillar, several smaller steps of ice exist above that help with gaining a good view of the local scenery.
On the first ascent, the group bailed on a first main objective deciding to tackle Plan B. The pilot had to scramble and fly to get a loaner harness at the Caribou Creek pullout. Fortunately for him, he was able to join the team on the ascent.
Descent: Rap (v-thread) the route.
FA: Paul Guzenski, Chris Lindsey, & Mark Fleenor, February 9, 2023
Lat/Long: 61.63065, -147.55532 To access this by foot or snow machine would be challenging at best. The route exists 10's of miles up the Matanuska Glacier and is likely best approached by helicopter. On the first ascent, the team flew with Sheep Mountain Air and shortened the approach to less than 10 minutes.
Send us your video of this route.
Leave a Reply