Rating: WI5
Length: 110+ meters
Pitches: 3-4
This is the right most pure ice line on the Coffee Break Wall. For pitch one, pick your line on a wide curtain pouring into a slot canyon (WI3-4), continuing on moderate snow to below the pillar for a belay. From here it is probably best to climb a 30 meter pitch of WI3 to a safe belay spot at the base of the pillar to avoid rope drag, there can be a sheltered cave here. Now tackle the pillar for 20-25 meters of WI5. The first ascent was done after a period of rain that left the pillar in fairly unprotectable ice conditions. Continue on above the pillar on moderate ice to a comfortable belay. Rappel from here, or depending on conditions there could be a little more moderate ice above.
According to Nate, “Cody drinks Bengal spice tea, and the route was very spicy, hence the name.”
Descent: V Thread, From above the pillar two 70 meter rappels should get you down.
FA: Cody Klingman, Nate Bannish, & Joe Nyholm; February 4, 2023
Posted By: Joe Nyholm, February 25, 2023.
Lat/Long: 60.17648024783421, -149.65365307072625 Snow machine/ski/bike out to the outwash plain by Exit Glacier(7.5 miles). On the left hand side of the canyon looking at the toe of the glacier there is a buttress of rock where park employees have been known to take coffee break in the summer(according to one of the first ascent climbers). Follow this buttress for a third of a mile navigating one short 4th class scramble (could be trivial with good snow). Then drop into a slot canyon below the wall on the left.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Pr54zokdYKk
video from the FA