Rating: WI4/5
Length: 25 meters
PFM Wall (often called Weeping Wall) offers numerous ice and dry-tool routes for those looking to push the limits. Rock and ice protection is good to have on hand as these routes are not usually for beginners.
This route starts to the right of the prominent PFM and climbs for a short distance before entering into a steep, right-faced corner (seen here hanging directly above the middle vehicle in picture). Continue up the corner to a sometimes more formed ice pillar (seen in pictures). Move right and up to a scary, hollow pillar. Climb the pillar up to a large alder bush at the finish.
FA: Steve Garvey & Jim Sweeney, 1988
Anchor/descent: An solid alder exists at the finish with many fixed slings.
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Drive approximately 3.5 miles south on the Seward Highway. Following the exit to McHugh Creek is a large pullout on the mountain side of the highway. Park in the pullout then pick your route while your belayer thanks you for getting them out of traffic.
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