Rating: WI3
Length: 35 meters
This route climbs through a nice wide curtain with consistent difficulty through the top.
FA:
Anchor: Alders are available at the top of this route for an anchor.
ALERT: This route is on private property and a sign has now been posted indicating that it is illegal to climb this route.
Rating: WI3+
Length: 200 meters, 4 pitches
Bushwhack uphill to reach the base of the lower angle ice, which extends downhill from the crux pitch, meaning the route is different lengths depending on the year. Best climbed during times of low snow as low angle pitches will be covered if it is very snowy. Transition here, and climb gradually steepening ice to the crux curtain. Find one more low angle pitch in the trees after the crux pitch, taking you to the top of the ridge.
FA: Feb 2018, climbed free solo by Samuel Johnson.
Anchor/Descent: Tree, v-threads
Posted by: Samuel Johnson
Rating: WI4
Length: 200 meters, 5 pitches
The 5th pitch on this route rarely forms. When it does, it presents a challenging WI5 crux.
FA: Cash Joyce, Bjorn Olson and Andy Henlin, 2000.
Anchor/Descent: V-thread
Posted by: Samuel Johnson
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FA:
Anchor: Alders are available at the top of this route for an anchor.
Rating: WI4, M6/7
Length: 250 meters, 5 pitches
Cash Joyce soloed the lower water ice late 1990s/early 2000s. Crux pitch equipped January 2017 by Samuel Johnson, Ben Chriswell, and Mike Burmeister. Climbed free Jan 2018 by Samuel Johnson with Ian Colegrove. The route consists of a gorgeous moderate ice apron, followed by a chimney and gradually steepening ice approaching the crux pitch. The crux pitch (M6 fat/M7 thin) climbs an overhanging corner with daggers/drips and several small roofs, and is protected by ice screws, bolts, and medium gear. Pull through a final off-width roof to a two bolt anchor. One final pitch of M5R gets you to the hobbit forest at the top of the cliff where you’ll find a tree anchor.
FA: Samuel Johnson and Ian Colegrove, January 2018
Descent: Trees, 2 bolted anchors, v-threads, trees.
Posted by: Samuel Johnson
ALERT: Occasional loose rock.
Seward lies approximately 2.5 hours south of Anchorage on the Seward Highway. This tiny community is a busy summertime port for the numerous cruise ships passing through. In the winter, the town becomes quiet and most shops are closed waiting the return of the summer visitors. If you are venturing down in the off season, be sure to check the recent conditions. Ice climbing in Seward can come and go just about as quick as the summer tourists.
The approaches for the ice climbing in Seward varies from roadside to back country. The accessible Slime Line is a great warm up for the other ice climbing in the area like Victor Creek. But, plenty of back country climbs are in the Seward area that are worth the investment of the approach.
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If the ice isn’t in on the Homer Bluffs, chances are you may find some at Ninilchik Beach. Ice pillars located both above and below the mouth of the Ninilchik River offer an array of medium length, yet challenging pillars of sometimes overhung ice. If moderate climbing is your thing, give this area a second look as there are plenty of fat WI3-4 routes, you just have to walk the beach and search for them.
These routes vary in difficulty just as much as they do in color (everything from black to yellow to blue). For those looking to climb low angle ice, there is plenty. For those looking to climb overhung, thin cicles, this is the place. Whatever the case, bring spectres if you want to keep your screws sharp because much of the ice in this area tends to house a good amount of sand. Also, be ready to make your own anchor should you top out. Route lengths vary, but having two ropes (for the rappel in) is a good idea.
(Note: Similar to the Homer Bluff, this ever changing and eroding area is difficult to learn when comparing the routes in the Fat City and Urban Ice guidebook; therefore, at this time Alaskaiceclimbing.com has provided only approach and a bit of route information. If you wish to learn more about this area we suggest studying the Fat City and Urban Ice guidebook which you should be able to find at your local library…in Alaska. Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking may also have a copy, but you must review it in the store as this book is now out of print.)
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ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Ninilchik area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on most routes.
Rating: WI5
Length: 60 meters
As of January 2008 this route is waiting for a second ascent. In the fall of 2007 this route lost a major portion of the bluffs at the base, which had previously provided more solid climbing. What is left is a free hanging pillar. From the beach hike snow/ice to the base of the ice. Climb a 15 meter vertical and possibly free-hanging pillar to a short curtain above followed by easy climbing to the top.
FA: Bill McKenna, Kyle Lints & Wes Kuhns, December 2005
Anchor: Alders exist at the top of the bluff for rappel but v-thread gear or pins may be required.
ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.
Rating: WI5/6
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From the beach climb moderate ice at the base of Redline up to where you feel comfortable to move right out onto the snow/ice and rock. Climb a dead vertical, thin, and possibly unprotectable pillar of ice. At the top of the top traverse right until you reach the ice that will take you to the top of the bluffs. up to up to a short pillar that will land you just below a dead vertical and sustained curtain. Climb the curtain and top out on some moderate ice above.
FA:
Anchor: Alders exist at the top of the bluff for rappel; however, a rappel from the top of Redline is recommended just in case your ropes don’t reach all the way to the base. V-thread material is recommended.
ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.
Rating: WI4+
Length: 70 meters
From the beach climb steep snow/ice to the base of the route. Climb a short and steep curtain to the snow bench. From the bench climb a steep pitch of ice, rock and dirt to the top of the bluffs.
FA: Jim Sweeney & Billy Day
Anchor: Alders exist at the top of the bluff for rappel but v-thread gear or pins may be required.
ALERT: Do not get caught in the tide. Make sure you are aware of the current tides in the Homer area as water levels do rise to the base of the ice on a few routes.
