Rating: WI4, M6/7
Length: 250 meters, 5 pitches
Cash Joyce soloed the lower water ice late 1990s/early 2000s. Crux pitch equipped January 2017 by Samuel Johnson, Ben Chriswell, and Mike Burmeister. Climbed free Jan 2018 by Samuel Johnson with Ian Colegrove. The route consists of a gorgeous moderate ice apron, followed by a chimney and gradually steepening ice approaching the crux pitch. The crux pitch (M6 fat/M7 thin) climbs an overhanging corner with daggers/drips and several small roofs, and is protected by ice screws, bolts, and medium gear. Pull through a final off-width roof to a two bolt anchor. One final pitch of M5R gets you to the hobbit forest at the top of the cliff where you’ll find a tree anchor.
FA: Samuel Johnson and Ian Colegrove, January 2018
Descent: Trees, 2 bolted anchors, v-threads, trees.
Posted by: Samuel Johnson
ALERT: Occasional loose rock.
Lat: 60.10147530666713
Long: -149.30776288083962
Park at 4th of July Creek. Head up 4th of July creek to its confluence with Godwin creek. Go past Jailbreak on the West end of a large forested rock buttress. Continue up Godwin creek for another 1/4 mile. The entire route is not visible from any single vantage point. Look for a left trending narrow apron of ice dropping out of the forested cliff below a large chimney system. Head uphill to access the lower ice apron of Blood Moon.
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