Rating: WI2
Length: 80 meters (Pitch 1)
Pitches: 2
Loo is a phrase derived from the French “guarded l’eau” meaning “watch out for water!” which was shouted in medieval times right before someone would toss their honey bucket out the window and onto the street below. Doing this climb early in the season, you may want to watch out for water too!
The main waterfall (N 63.436132° W 148.770500°) is about 80 meters of discontinuous, somewhat short ice steps in quick succession. Can be divided any number of ways, but 40m and 40m makes a convenient belay spot.
After that there are a few more, even shorter, easier, and more spread out, ice steps (~15 meters total) that you might choose to do unroped.
After that you may exit the gully system and walk off around climbers right.
If you choose to take a left in the gully system, there is a final short (~6m) waterfall step that is more difficult due to its steepness and thinner ice coverage at the top. (N 63.433633° W 148.770114°) It can also be bypassed on the right using a convenient alder for protection and some scrambling.
FA: Shane Ohms and Jeremy Sanchez, October 22, 2023
Descent: Walk off on climbers right once the horizon opens up and you are out of the gully system.
Posted by: Shane Ohms, November 1, 2023.
Lat/Long: N 63.436132° W 148.770500°
Park at the Nenana river bridge south of Panorama Mountain. The approach is about 2.5 miles via Nenana River corridor or buy AHTNA land use permit for the day.
I skied to the base of this climb today (1/12/24) and found it to be completely filled in with snow. It’s probably more of an early-season climb.. The nearby ‘Thin Blue Line’ was in good shape though.